Lagerfeld and Ungaro woo Paris fashion week

PARIS, Oct 6 (AFP) – Karl Lagerfeld on Wednesday rolled out a sharp collection of chic daywear and glamorous gowns for spring-summer 2005, while Giambattista Valli took a trip to sunny Greece for Emanuel Ungaro.  

Lagerfeld is a busy man. He showed his collection for Fendi last week in Milan, will unveil his latest efforts for Chanel here on Friday and his much-anticipated line for Swedish retailer H and M will hit stores next month.  

As he does each season at his own Lagerfeld Gallery, the prolific German designer turned out a ready-to-wear line of sleek, feminine clothes mainly in his preferred black and white, with a wink at his own sartorial choices.  

Chic masculine pinstriped suits with cropped double-breasted jackets took on a girlish allure when black crinoline slips peeked out from underneath knee-length skirts. A long black coat, crisp white shirt and black tie – staples of Lagerfeld’s own wardrobe – topped a full white skirt.  

For lazy afternoons in the Saint-Tropez sun, he offered flirty short dresses with horizontal stripes and fun bikinis, all in punchy primary colours.  

For evening, fluid body-skimming silver and crimson dresses fluttered to the knee or fell elegantly to the floor. A royal blue chiffon number hugged the body with three knotted sashes accentuating the waist and hips.  

The silver jewellery highlighted the Lagerfeld cult of personality, with pendants, cuff bracelets and cluster of rings all bearing his signature ponytail silhouette.  

At Emanuel Ungaro, Valli embraced a more laid-back vibe, transforming a penchant for Greece developed during a recent trip there into a romantic summer vision of carefree white separates for day and sexy dresses for evening.  

With techno remixes of traditional Greek songs blasting from the speakers, fresh-faced models strutted down the catwalk in cool silk blouses and frilly pleated skirts in summer white, with platform espadrilles completing the look.  

Valli created contrasts by pairing tight-fitting slim-leg capri pants with full, ruffled off-the-shoulder tops – perfect for a Mykonos vacation – or by setting bright prints in chartreuse and yellow against pure white.  

He pumped up the sex appeal with a black baby doll dress or satin trousers and silk skirts in emerald, violet, turquoise and fuchsia. For the beach, the Italian designer offered red swimwear with gauzy floral cotton cover-ups.   

For evening, halter dresses in hot shades hugged the hips and trailed to the floor in soft layers of wispy chiffon – a look sure to please pop divas and starlets looking to make a splash on the red carpet.  

Valli ended the show where he began – with a series of dresses and ensembles in pure white, sure to look stunning against the Aegean sea.  

Givenchy is still looking for a designer following Julien Macdonald’s departure in March but that did not stop the label from creating a collection inspired by the 1940s work of US fashion photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe.  

The line combined chic Parisian flair with relaxed American style. Cuffed cream capris were paired with a cropped rose jacket, while coral accents enlivened a prim ivory trench. Red gingham flats were the footwear of choice.  

For evening, a black dress made entirely of sequins in a fish scale pattern followed the same formula, losing a bit of its formality with a tangle of straps around the neckline.

© AFP

Subject: French News