Fashion goes wild in Issey Miyake menswear show

16th January 2014, Comments 0 comments

From volcanoes erupting in a myriad of colours to the shimmering northern lights, Issey Miyake brought nature at its wildest to Paris on Wednesday in the latest menswear line from the avant-garde Japanese house.

Inspired by a recent trip to Iceland, menswear designer Yusuke Takahashi combined elegance with eccentricity in a nature-inspired collection unveiled under industrial spotlights at the house's flagship Paris address on the historic Place des Vosges.

Top-to-toe batik-dyed suits with colour brushed on gave a spidery effect evoking the flow of magma after a volcanic eruption in a classical silhouette with loose-fitting trousers.

A large hand-cut poncho reaching almost to the ground mimicked the rough and eroded fjords, worn in blue or earthy red with pants, shoes and cap ablaze in a fiery pattern.

To portray the three-dimensional effect of the Aurora Borealis and glaciers, Takahashi turned to reflective jackets with a futuristic look, and classic suit jackets striped in the same shimmering prism fabric.

The same fabric was also added as a hem to shorts or the inner lining of a jacket.

Miyake's trademark pleats and twists were evident throughout an eye-popping finale which paired jackets with psychedelic-coloured shorts over tights -- in what the house described as "an energetic world of rainbow patterns as if seen through a kaleidoscope".

Takahashi told journalists after the show that he tried to bring a "more contemporary and elegant" feel to the line, at the same time as evoking the "spectacular nature" he saw in Iceland.

The luxury fashion house is one of two from Japan unveiling its Autumn/Winter collection Wednesday, with Yohji Yamamoto due to take to the runway along with Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten.

The style cavalcade, which arrived in Paris on Tuesday after London and Milan, is set to unveil more than 50 shows as burgeoning interest in men's fashion extended the calendar from three days to five in recent years.

"The market for men has developed a lot, especially in the past two or three years," said Veronique Nichanian, Hermes' menswear creative director, who will showcase her collection on Saturday evening.

"Now, they (men) have the same buying impulses as women."

On Sunday evening, after the Saint Laurent show by creative director Hedi Slimane, menswear gives way to six days of haute couture during which Italy's legendary Schiaparelli house makes a comeback more than 40 years after the death of its founder.

Versace kicks off on Sunday, and the Schiaparelli show by brand new creative director Marco Zanini gets underway on Monday morning.

© 2014 AFP

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