Belgian designer Kris Van Assche closes Paris shows
PARIS, January 19, 2008 - New star-designer on the block Kris Van Asschepulled the curtain on his autumn-winter collection at the Paris men's showswith a crowd-pleaser Friday -- the models bowed out stripped down to theirunderwear. Pulling off shirts and one of the designer's favourite pieces, skinnyworn-out pale blue jeans, some of the models were left standing in nothing butanother currently emerging fashion favourite -- Scottish tartan. At almost 32, the young Belgian designer who graduated from the famedAntwerp Arts Academy, was presenting his own vision of next winter's malesilhouette just a couple of days before rolling out only his second collectionfor Dior, where he took over from one of the biggest names in men's fashion,Hedi Slimane. Van Assche's collection under his own label featured a lot of the same redand blue Highland tartan in shirts and linings that splashed across the Milancatwalks earlier this week and resurfaced in Paris on Thursday in creations byYamamoto and Dries Van Noten. Van Assche's delivery at a show that only started once one of the world'stop fashion-writers turned up, 45 minutes behind schedule, was vigorouslyyouthful, featuring jeans and lots of skinny pants with side pockets cutankle-length above big clumpy boots, often in white. Suit-jackets were slightly short, coats classically belted ormilitary-style and Kris Van Assche mostly went for greys and blues, as well asa couple of pairs of shiny silver pants and a silvery velours jacket. Earlier, Britain's Blaak Home designer twosome, Sachiko Okada and AaronSharif, who have commissioned for Madonna, Bjork and David Bowie, offered avision of man next winter that largely stuck to blacks and greys but brokewith accepted conventions. Some shirts were as long as shifts, drifting well below jackets, some suitscame as shorts, pants came skinny and boot-top length -- and some again camein tartan. Layering lengths during their breezy catwalk display in a garage, much ashad Dries Van Noten the previous day, the pair used wools, leather and velvet,mixing and matching lengths, fabrics, and tartans with plain colours in afresh and fluid whirl. Kenzo held its show in the boxing hall of a Paris stadium, the modelswalking onto a revolving platform as thunder sounded overhead and a theatricalbackdrop played out the theme of the collection, the story of a 19th centuryScottish trader who eventually became a samurai. The Kenzo collection consequently began with pea coats and hunting jacketsin heavy worsted wools and flannels and ended in a juxtaposition of Westernmilitary regalia embellished with metalwork embroidery evoking the costumes ofthe Samurai. In between, as fake snow fell on the hundreds of fashion types present,Kenzo went for sportswear-inspired multi-pocket coats and hand-paintedtea-stained T-shirts, merging black, ink blue and earthy browns with flashesof violet, orchid green and mandarine.
AFP