Indonesian rijsttafel in Amsterdam
In the Utrechtsestraat Alex Cima discovers Tempo Doeloe and samples what he considers to be one of the best rijsttafels in town.
Utrechtsestraat has become one of my favorite Amsterdam neighbourhoods, the street (roughly 6 blocks in length) runs between Rembrandtplein and Frederiksplein, and is easily reachable by tram 4 from Central Station or the Dam going south, or from the RAI Congres Centrum going north.
The neighborhood has a lively collection of bars, what I consider the best record store in the city, and several great restaurants, including the outstanding Utrechtsedwarstafel just east on Utrechtsedwarsstraat.
Another exceptional restaurant is Tempo Doeloe, serving indonesian rijsttafel delicacies. I had the good fortune to visit twice during the new year's holiday. I first went by myself and ordered from the a la carte menu (see menu link below), needless to say I was impressed and hoped to elicit the same reaction from my friends Sophia and Dries, both of whom have spent considerable time in Indonesia and know the cuisine quite well.
In my second visit the three of us finally got to sample one of the best rijsttafels in the city. By the way, the service is unusually impeccable for a european restaurant (attentive, prompt, courteous). Reservations are required at this very popular establishment.
First visit highlights:
Fish in batter
Ice cream dessert
The rijsttafel we chose consisted of an appetizer, side dishes, rice, 18 dishes with various degrees of spiciness, and a formidable dessert. The yellow pepper pictured on the lower right in the hot spicy tray is to be consumed only by daredevil connoisseurs of extreme spicy dishes. For this evening I repeated the ice cream dessert from my previous visit.
Non spicy tray
Medium spicy tray
Hot spicy tray
Photos and text by Alex Cima
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