The food is a heavenly combination of ingredients prepared creatively and served with a special selection of wines. US expat Alex Cima finds it hard to keep away.

The sommelier selects wines and describes their character and source.

After my first dining experience at Utrechtsedwarstafel Restaurant last December (2006), I was looking forward to my visit in June (2007), and my wish was granted not once but twice.

UDS has no menu or waiters. You pick from a matrix of 3-5 entrees and then select from simple to gastronomic complexity, and when you make your reservation you also tell them what types of food you would'nt like to consume. Igor Sens, the master chef, not only cooks a magic combination of ingredients prepared in a most artistic manner but also brings the dish to your table and explains its composition, while Hans Verbeek, the sommelier selects different glasses of wine and likewise describes their character and source.

On my second visit in early June I had fishcake served with a delicious light sweet soave white wine from Fattori Classico, followed by a Pieropan LaRocca, also a soave white but with a harder more robust body. The next dishes consisted of a lobster salad with artichoke and avocado in special vinaigrette, (Wow!) along with a light chardonnay from Marc Morev Saint-Aubin and a filet of sole which literally melted in the mouth, served with spinach, mushroom, and asparagus.

Next, lamb with mixed vegetables and a Solanes Priorat red burgundy, then a wonderful pate and a sweet Chenin blanc from Domain des Quarts de Chaume-Baumard. For dessert a crunchy dish of strawberries and caramel served with a sweet dessert wine from Don PX Montilla-Moriles, the evening then capped with chocolate with figs and almonds, and as if that was not enough, candies and a cappuccino. Could it get any better than this?

UDS decor: 100's of wine bottles waiting to be enjoyed.

As June turned into summer, I visited once more. This time I finally tried the classic Dutch dish, herring, except this was no corner stand fishmonger's herring but a boned, thick, delicious filet served with a dry Manzanilla (Spanish sherry) from San Leon Bodegas Argueso, and a gewürztraminer from Alsace, sweet with a great body. Then, a Puilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes chardonnay from Michel Forest, french duck terrine sliced carpaccio, lobster with fennel lobster sauce and white fish in a flaky thin crust which upon entering my mouth was accompanied by incredibly loud thunder as Amsterdam was experiencing one of its typical out-of-nowhere downpours.

This magnificence was followed by steak with tomatoes, champignons, peas, and polenta with eggplant comfiture, served with a decanted Sacrisassi Rosso Italian Beaujolais from Le Due Terre, continued with foie gras. A glass of Santa Croce soave culminated the meal along with caramelized warm peach (hhmm!) with vanilla ice cream, cherries, and a scoop of fruit sorbet. It definitely cannot get better than this!

What you can expect to pay

The most expensive combination of number of courses/wine glasses and complexity is about 115 euros/person all inclusive (5 courses of "gastronomic complexity", food, dessert, and 5-6 glasses of wine).

Address

Utrechtsedwarstafel Restaurant
Utrechtsedwarstraat 107-109  
(020) 625-4189

www.utrechtsedwarstafel.nl/en-index.html

Written after Alex’s first dining experience at Utrechtsedwarstafel Restaurant (UDS) last December (06), reviewed on the Gridskipper website.

17 September 2007

by Alex Cima