Once a grand old cinema dedicated to the news and reality, Cineac has been reborn as a chic multi-purpose lounge-bar and restaurant.

Cineac: a new look after an extreme makeover

The original Cineac was a total contrast to the Tuschinski movie theatre, its neighbour across the Reguliersbreestraat in central Amsterdam. The former was built in 1934 by architect Johannes Duiker in accordance with the 'Modernist' geometric credo of the 'Style' movement of the time and was designed to show the reality of "actualite", the Dutch for news. The latter is an amazing Art Deco dream palace dedicated to luxury living.

Since its heyday, the Cineac suffered some drastic renovations and through the 1980s served as a "riksbioscoop" — in which movie tickets cost a riksdaalder (2.50 guilder coin).

But fantasy wins out over reality every time: Cineac withered and died while Tuschinski went from strength to strength. 

The renovated Cineac premises reopened as a restaurant in November 1996, with a massive "Planet Hollywood" sign sticking up from the roof on stilts, replacing the Cineac name. But Planet Hollywood proved to be from a different galaxy and soon faded away too.

Now taking the lead from its glamorous neighbour, Cineac has reappeared as a stylish eatery and a marvellous addition to Amsterdam's thriving early 21st century restaurant-club scene.

On entering the gorgeous bar-lounge area downstairs, your eyes are drawn to an enormous gold lame, semi-circular wall with a moon-shaped cut-out that frames the guests.

The lounge cabins hug the wall and spread out to the back of the room.

The bar floats in the centre of the room like a spaceship that has landed in 'Dutchland' to propagate a cocktail culture that never existed here. Champagnes, vodkas of the best variety, whiskey, rums and tequilas are mixed with just the right dash of panache.

A purplish light sprays the room with a flattering glint, while a wispy burgundy-spotted feathery carpet design leaves one feeling star-struck. The multi-tiered, four-storey dome design wonder (a la Moulin Rouge in Paris - minus the Can-Can dancers) is a throwback to the early 30s.

The first and second floors host an excellent French restaurant with an Asian touch that seast 75-80 people, while the private Suite Noir is fully equipped with top-notch audio-visual equipment — not a surprise given that the place is owned by Dutch music promoter ID-T.

Reccommended dress code?

I advised my guests to dress up as if they were going to a Parisian nightclub in the 1930s. True to form they dazzled me and my husband, who were dressed none too shabby, if I might say so myself.

Cineac has a strict door policy and does not allow entry to anyone under 25. This decision couldn't be more welcome in a city that hardly goes out of its way to cater to the bon vivant over 35.

We wet our whistles in accordance with an astute recommendation from the sexily-clad and utterly charming waitress in high spiked heels. The house-special vodka cocktail was akin to a Sea Breeze – mandarin Absolut with cranberry juice and a slice of lime.

Because the menu was too extensive to take in during one sitting, even with a table of four, I arranged for a special menu which included wines by the glass recommended by the sommelier.

We started with a terrine of goose liver with balsamic syrup and brioche bread studded with almonds. Although the plate arrangement was too sober for my taste; cubes of goose liver on a circular white bland plate without greens, once I closed my eyes shunning the inconsiderate presentation I floated heavenwards. The Alsatian Cuvee Theo Weinbach 2001 Gewürztraminer was an ideal match.

This was followed by grilled scallops with sweet paprika sauce. The dish was a tad too sweet for my sour taste buds, yet the molluscs were grilled to perfection, and the chunky scallops were tender and moist inside with a smoky flavour from the pan juices. We drank Inkawu South African Chenin Blanc 2003.

One in our group had the coconut soup with lemon grass and fried scampis, a new version of a traditional Thai concoction. Plenty of scampi, not skimpy.

Someone else had lobster bisque with cilantro and apple bits that flocked like birds around a bath. The same Chenin Blanc was served as the previous course and the improbable combination worked like a charm.

Braised turbot with tomato compote and leeks followed, while not my ultimate in a fish combo this was outstanding despite its straightforwardness. It was served with a Macon-Uchizy Domaine de L'arfentiere 2002.

Roast saddle of lamb with aubergine caviar and garlic sauce was served with undercooked moussaka of potato, zucchini and eggplant — it was a bit rough around the edges. Yet the lamb was succulent, just pink on the inside and well proportioned. A Cote de Nuits Villages Domaine Chauvenet, Chopin 2000, was a stupefying choice of wine to accompany it.

We each ordered a different dessert. We shared the tarte tatin of apple – a simple turn off that I would not hesitate to remove from the menu at once.

I also sampled a creme brulee to die for - crunchy topping with a stiff enough consistency. One of my party had a chocolate truffle pie that any chocolate lover would go into cardiac arrest for, and another ordered a warm chocolate mousse, rich enough for the poorest amongst us.

Nearing the end of our dessert we noticed two performing artists standing in the circular wall space downstairs in the lounge.

Intrigued by the notion of light entertainment, we discovered it was being provided by a highly–contrived duo of boys playing girls doing a poor imitation of slo-mo Japanese Noh theatre. It was a complete waste of time.

Of course Cineac is just a few months old, so some kinks have to be worked out. While it aspires to serving haute cuisine, a bit more attention needs to be paid to colour, layout, tableware and arrangement.

The service was chummy - some may feel a little too close for comfort; however that may depend on several factors including how boisterous a customer you are. The waiters seem to adapt readily - a good sign.

If within 12 months they can achieve as seductive a plate production while trimming some items from the menu that are not as haughty as "oughty-to-be", Cineac is sure to be a long-term fixture on the Amsterdam scene.

Reguliersbreestraat 31-33
1017 CM Amsterdam
Phone: 020 530 6888
Online: www.cineac.id-t.com
Email: cineac@id-t.com

Open:
Restaurant: Sunday to Thursday 6pm – 11pm
Friday and Saturdays 6pm – midnight (call for reservations)
The bar and lounges are open from Sunday to Thursday from 6pm – 1am and on Friday and Saturday from 6pm until 3am.

21 May 2004

[Copyright Expatica 2004]

Subject: Eating out in Amsterdam