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You are here: Home Leisure Travel & Tourism On yer bike
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04/04/2008On yer bike

Roberta Cowan finds the best way to appreciate the works of the Old Dutch masters is to take a bicycle ride through their landscapes.

If you venture to the edge of any Dutch city by bike, you will surely notice the little white signs on the fietspaden (bicycle paths) marking the next town's distance in kilometres.

The generally flat Dutch terrain combined with 20,000 km of fietspaden makes cycling in the Netherlands an extraordinarily pleasant activity, and one not exclusively for the very fit or sporty. Though you will have to put up with a spot of rain every now and then.

The Netherlands has more bikes than the country's 16-plus million citizens. In fact, many people have at least two bikes, one (in not-so-excellent condition) for everyday use and the other for excursions. You don't have to be here long before realizing that bikes rule; children learn to ride before they walk.

Peddling pensioners ride alongside stockbroker types in tailored suits and women in short skirts; parents often have two or even three kids strapped on and they’re all singing; cyclists are able to carry anything on the back of a bike, while rolling a cigarette with the other hand and fancy racing bikes with a hundred gears are simply not necessary to exploring this country.

And, everyone does it. Yes, people use their bikes to get from A to B, but they also ride bicycles to discover Rotterdam's harbour the coastline, the countryside and a plethora of charming villages peppered around this, extraordinarily, bike-able country.

A network of cycle paths replete with cycle bridges, tunnels and ferries awaits anyone curious about exploring the Netherlands on two wheels and the abundance of paths means cyclists rarely have to share space on the roads with cars.

Coastline, forests, maritime harbour villages, meandering rivers, rolling hills (in the south near Belgium) can be explored by bike and armed with a few maps, water bottles and a bicycle repair kit, it doesn't take a heap of planning before setting off, for a few days, a weekend, a day trip or even in the evening as the nights stay light longer.

Exploring by bike is extra special, particularly because it's your peddling that got you there. But you will also notice things about a place and the people that you wouldn’t in a car. Locals are often nicer to cyclists because they appreciate the effort made to visit.

Here are a few but day trips from Amsterdam:

Haarlem and Zandvoort

Head towards Sloterdijk and just outside the city ring you will find directions to Halfweg and Haarlem. Take lunch in Haarlem's city centre and a stroll around the Frans Hals museum before setting off for the beach at Zandvoort and a cycle through the dunes. Jump on the train back to Amsterdam at Zandvoort if you don't fancy peddling back.

Waterland

Even though the region is close to Amsterdam, relatively few come to explore the stunning villages and farms built mostly on peat meadow. Take the ferry behind Central Station to Amsterdam North and follow the white signs to Durgerdam along the dyke to Uitdam (although a detour through Holyslot — in the summer should include cake and homemade lemonade at the only local tea room).

Then on to Broek in Waterland where you will find the best Dutch pannekoken house (pancakes, either savoury or sweet). The trip back is a lot faster if you follow the signs to Amsterdam along the canal back to the ferry behind CS.

(Also read our article 'Discovering  Amsterdam's waterlands by bike')

The River Vecht to Utrecht

From Amsterdam set out towards Diemen to Muiden and onto Weesp which will get you right alongside the River Vecht, which is a glorious meandering river stretching all the way to Utrecht.

Take in the beautiful, stately chateaux along the river’s edge from the 'Golden Era' and stop for lunch in Breukelen. (The calm town Brooklyn USA was named after) before arriving in Utrecht in time for an aperitif.

Longer trips:

Photo © nakedskyThe Ijmeer
Cycle north to Purmerend through farms and fields to Hoornsche Hop inlet of the Ijmeer along to the town of Hoorn, a lovely harbour village that was a prestigious port in the 17th century. Then ride on along the coast to Enkhuizen, another once famous port town, where you will take the ferry to Savoren.

Should you head northeast on to Leewarden, you will pass through villages, countryside and Frisian lakes. Should you head north along the coast, you will end up in Harlingen, the town with the ferry port for Terschelling and Vlieland (coast islands—the jewels of the Netherlands, also to be explored). Harlingen is a centre for traditional Dutch sailing barges with breathtaking vessels all along the harbour.

Island hopping in Zeeland: Take the train to Vlissingen and start island hopping around Zeeland to Middelburg, Veere, Breezand, through to Brielle; all charming villages, still bursting with island mentality, maritime life including small harbours and marinas. Zeeland was the province most affected by the Great Flood of 1953 but has since been fortified with bridges, dams and dykes in the Delta Project.

A perfect weekend trip but remember if you rent a bike in one place, you have to return it to the same place.




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