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For a country that's just 175 years young this year, Belgium has an awful lot to celebrate, muses Gary Hills.When you look at the medieval architecture of Antwerp and Ghent, or the Italian baroque splendour of the Grand'Place in Brussels, it's strange to recall that Belgium, the country, is one of Europe's spotty youths.
Whilst its regions and provinces are full of age and wisdom, its birth as a fully-fledged independent state only occurred in 1830, making it a bit of a teenager in the European family.
What a strange concept, then, that this little Kingdom should be celebrating its 175th birthday this year (it's also 25 years since Belgium became a federal state).
Strange because we assume Belgium has always been there, especially as this patch of northern Europe has always been such an important part of the continent's development and history.
All this time, Rubens has been on my list of famous Belgians - always handy in readiness for those wits who ask the fatuous question.
It's just 175 years since Belgium became Belgium
Now I find out he wasn't Belgian at all, but a Flemish resident of the Spanish Netherlands just before it became the Austrian Netherlands. Confused? You will be if you read the history of these hotly contested lands in the 17th and 18th centuries.
The official birth date of the Belgian nation all came about because of an opera at La Monnaie.
It's certainly a satisfying feeling to know that the Belgians can stoke as much operatic fire in their bellies as the Italians.
Also that the staid old opera house sitting on the bleak Place de la Monnaie lifted its skirts and became a place of revolution and nationalistic fervour.
For it was here during a performance of La Muette de Portici by Daniel Auber, that the audience started getting agitated during an aria called Sacred Love of the Fatherland.
Whether it was the words or the quality of the singing, they rampaged and ran out to join impoverished workers who had been demonstrating on the square outside.
The Dutch king, William I - who was in charge at the time - tried to quash the unrest, but the army deserted him and the only choice was secession.
On 4 October 1830 an independent state was declared and a provisional government put in place.
By January 1831 the powers-that-be had recognised the state of Belgium and after much deliberation, the first Léopold was put on the throne, taking his oath on 21 July, making that date Belgium's National Day.
So, here we are 175 years on and the Belgian government is in festive mood.
I say the government, because it's still unclear how it has affected the mood of the people.
A low key affair
In typical Belgian fashion, the year so far has been understated, with hardly any outward signs of celebration.
I'm not saying it should be like Christmas, but a few banners and flags, or an advert here and there wouldn’t go amiss.
Despite that, there is a programme of events to celebrate the anniversary, headed up by some impressively important exhibitions.
'Visionary Belgium' is a massive retrospective at the Palais des Beaux-Arts in Brussels, looking at Belgian art since 1830, along with sculpture design, architecture, music and literature.
Swiss curator Harald Szeemann spent two years putting together the 500 works of art - alas, it was to be his last show as he sadly died earlier this year.
Ann Veronica Janssens and others on show at the Beaux Arts
Now the works of Belgian greats such as Ensor, Delvaux, Rops, Magritte, Horta, Panamarenko and Ann Veronica Janssens sit in 26 rooms as a testament to Belgian accomplishment and a befitting memorial to one of the world's greatest curators.
At the Centre d'Art Dexia in Brussels, 'Made in Belgium' is a massive undertaking looking at Belgian achievements from culture to science, economics to sports, design, fashion and anything else that can carry the Made in Belgium label.
Over at the Fine Arts museum, a resolutely sturdy exhibition looks at the Belgian Romantic Movement in art, important for this birthday as it covers the reign of Léopold I (1830-1865) and shows how the idealism of a new state was represented by artists in paint and marble.
More down to earth and at a social history level is a lovely photography exhibition at the Museum of Photography in Charleroi.
'A Hundred Pictures for a Birthday' is a collection of professional and amateur photos from the museum archive, detailing life in the country throughout the years.
Icing on the big birthday cake is provided by a series of concerts, performances and sporting events throughout the country as well as lectures and conferences.
The latter may not be your cup of tea, but as Miss Jean Brodie said in her prime: "For those that like that sort of thing, that is the sort of thing they like."
So, whilst most celebrations seems to be high-brow, high-culture stuff, we have yet to see if there will be any street parties or neighbourhood celebrations.
You know, the type with long tables, bunting and a mobile disco, beer for mum and dad, jelly for the kids and face painting in black, yellow and red.
Maybe they'll keep the military under lock and key on National Day and instead roll out a carnival of floats and the type of street parade that Belgium is so good at.
Bring out the Gilles, the giants, the Zinnekes, give the people a chance to celebrate, bring on the fireworks, let's have a party.
Let's celebrate youth!
For information on 175-25, including onward links:
March 2005
[Copyright Expatica 2005]
Subject: Belgium, anniversary
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