Whenever the temperature drops below zero for more than a day, the Dutch get a certain extra sparkle in their eyes. No, it’s the possibility that they will once again have the good fortune to go ice skating. Oh sure, there’s always those artificial ice rinks — like the one open now in in the Westerpark (Amsterdam, outside the Pacific Parc restaurant) — but what really tantalises is the prospect of skating on natural ice.

And there are lakes, canals and ponds all over the Netherlands that freeze up enough to skate on. The Main Event Every winter there’s huge speculation about the Elfstedentoch, the Eleven-Cities Tour, a 200km marathon skate in Friesland that takes place entirely on natural ice. So rare is it that enough ice to forms along the route that it has only been run 15 times since it officially began in 1909, though the race is said to have been around for hundreds of years.

In 1963, conditions were so extreme that some competitors lost toes to frostbite while others skated right off the ice when they could no longer see the edge of the skating surface. And still, would-be competitors sign up and pay a fee every year, hoping to be a part of the next race.

Unfortunately, only members of the official association (De Vereniging De Friesche Elf Steden) are eligible to join the race, which starts and finishes in the Friesland capital of Leeuwarden. A lottery decides which lucky skaters will get to compete, but it isn’t held until the mercury dips low enough.

Conditions for the race are very specific and as soon as the ice has reached the required thickness of 16cm, the race will be called to take place two days later. Each winter consistent freezing temperatures spark furious speculation as to whether or not the big event will be held, which hasn’t been run since 4 January 1997.

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