Overijssel lies between the German border and the IJsselmeer. Its towns along the river IJssel – Deventer, Kampen, and its capital Zwolle – were the economic heart of northwest Europe in the Middle Ages.

In the northwest (West Overijssel), Staphorst and Rouveen are intriguing villages steeped in rigid religious practices – its inhabitants still living in ways of the past. It also has lake areas with ancient ‘peat-villages’ like Giethoorn, a ‘must-see’ on your itinerary.

The ‘Salland’ is the centre section of Overijssel, a lesser-known region. Unspoilt and peaceful, it has comfortable hotels, campsites and bungalows for those who want to spend time fishing, canoeing, or just visiting its old villages. Lovely woods, ancient towns and interesting castles and manor houses are found in the eastern Twente area, which extends to the German border.

Zwolle
The capital of Overijssel province is Zwolle, with a history going back some 770 years. Located on the river IJssel, it was a major trading centre in the Middle Ages, and has retained its rich architectural heritage. Before exploring, ask the VVV for their recommended walking tour. The Sassenpoort, Sassenstraat 53, with its five spires is one of the old city gates. Built in 1409, the city’s defenders poured boiling oil on attackers through its slit-like openings. Inside are historical exhibitions. Two other gates from the 15th-century town walls; are the Wijndragerstoren, occupied by the town’s wine porters; and the Pelsertoren where furriers washed skins and furs in the canal and hung them along the wall to dry.

Next to the wall is Broerenkerk, on Broerenkerkplein, part of a Dominican monastery founded in 1465; open only for special exhibits. Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk, Ossenmarkt, dates from 1395, and you can climb its tower, the Peperbus. The Grote Kerk, also known as St. Michael’s Church, is located on the centre’s Kerkplein. This triangular Gothic church commenced in 1406, and was completed 40 years later. Inside are the finely carved pulpit from 1620 and the world-famous Schnitger organ (1721) which has 4,000 pipes and four manuals. The Town Hall comprises two buildings: the old Town Hall, the ‘Weehme’ (former 16th-century vicarage of the Grote Kerk), and the New Town Hall. Next to the church is the picturesque Hoofdwacht (1614), the town’s former militia guardhouse, and now the police headquarters. Nearby is the Karel V House, Sassenstraat 33. Work began before 1555, but by its completion date in 1571, Karel V the German Emperor, had died.

Zwolle’s Ecodrome, Willemsvaart 19, is an environmental theme park with a walking maze, butterfly garden and dinosaur skeleton. The Stedelijk Museum, Melkmarkt 41, has period rooms from Gothic times to Art Nouveau, while the Museum de Fundatie, Blijmarkt 18, is devoted to numerous styles of art. For market-lovers, the cattle market on Rieteweg, Fridays 6am-noon, is the largest in Holland. The general market is on the Grote Kerkplein, Fridays 8:30am-1pm; and on the Melkmarkt and Grote Markt, Sat. 8am-5pm. Information: VVV, Grote Kerkplein 14, (0900) 112 2375; www.vvvzwolle.nl.

In the neighbourhood of Zwolle, at Staphorst and Rouveen one can see the traditional dress and customs of people from this strict religious community. In contrast to towns such as Marken and Volendam in North Holland province, the people here do not readily welcome ‘outsiders,’ and taking pictures can be a difficult – even risky – affair. These stern people are highly religious, and do not even approve of riding bicycles on Sundays. They will tolerate visitors on weekdays, but do not point a camera at them! Get a rare glimpse into their culture at the Gemeentelijke Museumboerderij, Gemeenteweg 67.

For the kids, Attractiepark Slagharen, Zwartedijk 39, Slagharen open March-Oct. 10am-5:30pm, has all the fun of the fair and is the ideal venue if your kids love horses. Ommen, in the middle of woods along the banks of the Vecht river, has four majestic windmills. Two are open regularly: Den Oordt, Den Oordt 6, built in 1824, is part of the regional Streekmuseum Ommen, and De Lelie, Molenpad 7, from 1846, www.museumommen.nl. The Nationaal Tinnen Figuren Museum, Markt 1, contains over 150,000 tin figures set up in dioramas.

Kampen
From 1240 until the late 1500s, Kampen was a major city on the river Ijssel. It prospered as a member of the Hanseatic League, trading with England, Germany and the Baltic states. Emperor Maximilian bestowed the title ‘Imperial Free Town’ on Kampen, an indication of its wealth in the late Middle Ages. By 1400 it was the largest city in what is now the Netherlands, with a population four times that of Amsterdam at the time. It reached the height of its prosperity in the 15th century before its harbour silted up and the Spaniards occupied the city. Kampen is now a small town with an attractive old skyline. Its glorious past can be seen in its three city gates, and in some 500 historic buildings that line its charming streets.

The city’s most impressive building is the Oude Raadhuis, or old Town Hall on Oudestraat 133, dating from the first half of the 14th century. It was largely devastated in 1543 but immediately rebuilt. The statues on the façade are: Charlemagne, Alexander the Great, Moderation, Fidelity, Justice and Love. Nearby, the 17th-century New Tower, Oudestraat 146, open on summer Saturdays 11am-5pm, is worth a look…even with the climb. The Stedelijk Museum, Oudestraat 158, is housed in a merchant’s home built in Kampen’s glory years. Kampen has some of the country’s loveliest gabled facades and three photogenic town gates. The Broederpoort and Cellebroeders-poort, both on Ebbingstraat, were built around 1617. The Koornmarktspoort, IJsselkade 1, has two 14th-century towers. St. Nicholas’ Church, Koornmarkt, was built around 1400. There is also a Tobacco Museum, at Botermarkt 3. Information: VVV, Oudestraat 151, (0900) 112 2375

Giethoorn
Utterly picturesque Giethoorn is located in a lake area, and known as the ‘Green Venice of the North’. It is set along a series of canals– the primary means of transportation here, as in Venice – with many of its thatched roof houses surrounded by water. Chances are you’ll see the baker, milkman, a wedding party, or even cows gliding by – all in traditional punts. As you can’t drive a car into town (you park just outside in designated areas), you either walk along the canals...or, do as the locals do and take a boat.

Around 1280 a group of flagellants – so-named as they scourged themselves to atone for their sins, settled here. They believed the day of judgement was near. Few areas accepted their ideas, so they were forced to wander Europe. But a sympathetic nobleman from a nearby castle allowed them to remain here. Masses of ancient goat horns were found on the land, so the settlers named their village ‘Geytenhorn’ (Goat’s Horn), eventually becoming Giethoorn. In order to pay taxes to the Count, the villagers dug peat and sold it. They worked in a disorganised way, digging how and wherever they pleased, with the result that lakes and ditches formed. Canals had to be excavated to transport the peat, creating little islands on which the houses stood, reachable only by boat or bridge. These canals and bridges give Giethoorn its present storybook appearance.

Giethoorn is a photographer’s heaven, but gets very crowded in summer. Once there, walk or choose from the numerous one-hour boat tours near the parking area. There are also small, low-powered electric motor boats for rent, easy to operate by most landlubbers.

Even this small village has a choice of museums. De Oude Aarde, Binnenpad 43, has a most interesting collection of semi-precious stones, also set in jewellery from all over the world. Museum De Speelman, Binnenpad 123, has a collection of street musicians’ instruments from 1800 to 1925. Gloria Maris Schelpengalerie, Binnenpad 115, has shells and corals. The Museumboerderij ’t Olde Maat Uus, Binnenpad 52, is a restored farm showing 150 years of farm life. Automuseum Histo-Mobil, Cornelisgracht 42, displays over 300 model vehicles. Interesting shops and galleries can be found on the Binnenpad and Zuiderpad. For several days in late August the Gondelvaart, a special parade with decorated and illuminated gondolas takes place. The village is also enchantingly illuminated during this time. Information: VVV, Beulakerweg 114a, (0900) 567 4637

Denekamp and Ootmarsum Easter traditions
In the ancient town of Denekamp the main attraction is Singraven Castle, or Huis Singraven, Molendijk 39, (1381) contains 17th and 18th-century paintings, Gobelin tapestries and antique furniture. There is also a 15th century three-wheel watermill. The Museum Huize Keizer, Kerkplein 2, is a 1900s-style shop and residence. Museum Natura Docet, Oldenzaalsestraat 39, features natural history.

Denekamp has a special Easter celebration, wherein the townsfolk are led by a ‘Judas Iscariot’ out of the 13th-century St. Nicholas Kerk to Singraven. From here an Easter pine tree is dragged to the ‘Easter meadow,’ its branches cut off and burnt with the trunk in the evening Easter fires. Near Denekamp is Ootmarsum an extremely old town and a magnet for tourists because of its 18th-century- style timbered houses, an old town square with a 12th-century church, and three watermills. The Openluchtmuseum, Smithuisstraat 2, is a 1666 farmstead museum complete with tools and utensils, a wagon-makers shop, blacksmith, apiary and children’s farm.

Ootmarsum is the only Dutch town to continue several Easter traditions; the Pasenoptocht, wherein children walk through the town carrying palms on Palm Sunday; and Vlöggelen on Easter Sunday and Monday, wherein groups of young men parade around the church singing Easter hymns. Their numbers gradually swell and by late afternoon, joined by others, their singing continues through the streets of town. Ootmarsum is also one of a few towns in Overijssel to have a festive Paasvuur, an enormous bonfire. These Easter traditions go back as far as the 13th century.

In the neighbourhood of Almelo, Hellendoorn is the place for kids at Adventure Park Hellendoorn, Luttenbergerweg 22, www.avonturenpark-hellendoorn.nl, open April-Oct., There’s a monorail, log and white river rafting, sea-lion shows and rollercoaster. In Hengelo there is yet another stop for the children, at Recreatiepark De Waarbeek, Twekkelerweg 327, with a variety of rides.

Enschede
The Rijksmuseum Twenthe, Lasondersingel 129, has a collection of fine and applied arts from the 13th-19th century, as well as modern and contemporary art. www.rijksmuseumtwenthe.nl. Museum Twentsewelle, features nature, textiles, fossils, minerals, and more, www.twentsewelle.nl. The 15th-century Grote Kerk on the market square has 9th-century foundations, and was significantly rebuilt after an 1862 fire. There are 30 parks to choose from here. Little ones may enjoy the children’s farm in Wooldrikspark, Boulevard/Gronausestraat, or the Hoge Boekel, Hoge Boekelerweg 410, a playground with midget golf.

Nearby in Oldenzaal is the impressive12th-century St. Plechelmusbasiliek, St. Plechelmusplein, is made of Bentheim sandstone, and has the largest bell-tower in Europe. It’s named for the Irish St. Plechelm, who converted the district, and died here in 730. Museum Het Palthehuis, Marktstraat 13, is a museum of antiquities. Twickel Castle, Twickelerlaan, is an impressive monument to the wealth and power of the Counts of Twickel. The interior cannot be visited; but a walk through its grounds to admire the moats, towers and garden is recommended.

Deventer
In the 5th-and 6th-centuries Deventer was an important town and by 1400 one of the most important trading centres. In the 1500’s it was the leading Dutch town in the printing trade. On Brink, the city’s centre square is the Waag, the weighing house built in 1582. Outside is a large pan in which an official caught counterfeiting was supposedly boiled in hot oil. Fastened to the wall, it served as a warning to others. In the 19th-century French soldiers used it for target practice, hence the many holes. Inside is Museum de Waag with various historical exhibits. The 15th-century Grote Kerk or Lebuinus Church was built on the foundations of an 11th-century Roman basilica. The Stadhuis opposite the church consists of several buildings, the most remarkable of which is the Landhuis built in 1632. Around the two-towered Bergkerk, Bergplein, is the Bergkwartier, lined with stately patrician houses that form an interesting medieval pattern. Information: VVV, Keizerstraat 22, (0570) 61 31 00

20 March 2008

© Copyright Here’s Holland - “Simply the best all-in-one guide to travel and life in Holland.” (2007, 9th edition) by Sheila Gazaleh-Weevers, Shirley Agudo and Connie Moser.  Available in bookshops and via  www.heresholland.com.