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04/12/2009From Barcelona: Christmas in Catalonia

Christmas season here runs much longer and includes more than just gift exchange with your loved ones, explains blogger Jeremy Holland.

The first cold snap has arrived requiring jackets to come out of the closet and heaters to be turned on for the first time this winter. Many streets throughout the city are being strung with lights for the upcoming holiday season, but they won't come on for another week or so.

Just like in the States, Christmas in Catalonia kicks off after a long weekend – Constitution day (6 December) followed by the Day of the Immaculate Conception (8 December) with 7 December being the un puente or bridge.

The main Christmas fair in Barcelona is La Fira de Santa Llùcia (Lucia) located outside the Gothic Cathedral. Inaugurated in 1786, hundreds of small wooden stands sell Christmas decorations, ornaments, reefs and trees to the many, many people strolling around checking out the scene.

I remember as a kid back in the States, getting and decorating the tree was the centre of attention. However, here in Spain, the nativity scene with hand crafted figurines and well-built mangers takes centre place and is prominently displayed throughout the market.

The Catalan addition to the picture of Mary holding the baby Jesus with Joseph, the Angel and the Three Kings looking on between an ox sheep and a mule is el caganer, or the shitter.  Traditionally, el caganer is a peasant, who with the aid of a pipe and a paper, is planting a pine. In recent years, this pose has also been given to certain celebrities and political figures such as Obama, the Pope, and Messi.

Photo source: youtube footage
Preparing el Caganer Obama

Another unique Christmas tradition is the El Gordo, (The Fat One) or the biggest lottery in Spain which is held on the 22 December.

El Gordo is the biggest lottery in Spain and dates back to 1812. It is designed to give as many people as possible a windfall just before the holidays.

If you walk into a tobacco shop or anywhere that sells Christmas lottery tickets, you're likely to see a witch riding on a broomstick hanging from the ceiling, or a sign with her picture on it. Called La Bruixa d'Or or La Bruja de Oro or the Golden Witch, she hails from a small town called Sort (luck in Catalan) in Lleida and is famous enough to warrant its own Facebook page.  



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