First impressions can be lasting, and for employees heading into a new culture, a successful transition can mean 'head to toe'.

Abroad we judge the dress; at home we judge the man. (Chinese proverb)

Neutral colours are a good choice for business.

A brilliant IT strategist landed his dream job in Milan. While his plans and proposals were flawless and the company was destined for increased productivity, his ideas were greeted with a mere modicum of enthusiasm.

A native colleague politely informed him that his too-casual jeans, rumpled shirts, and unkempt hair were holding him back. Shocked that he should be judged on what he perceived as superficial, he looked around at his well-dressed counterparts. It was time for a change of attitude, and trousers.

While some countries treat attention to dress and clothes as frivolous, others view it as a sign of respect, says Susan Sommers of DressZing, a fashion consultant and business comportment coach. Part of assimilating into a new job is learning all you can about the culture that you will be living in. Here's how to make a smooth head to toe transition.

First and lasting

"We are judged on first impressions. These images are imprinted in the brain," says Sommers, also the author of 'Italian Chic and French Chic'. "Although they are only a snapshot of who you are, you have a very small window to get it right." 

If you are in the training phase of relocating, make certain you visit the country to get a feel for what is being worn in the boardroom and on the streets. Don't rely on word of mouth or outdated pictures. Europeans, specifically, are not frivolous about dressing—it's almost a part of their DNA, notes Sommers.

The contrary may be true in certain cultures, overdressing is just as bad. "If you are in competition for the position, the expat who can fit into the new culture well will be the one to triumph," says Sommers.

Bad dress or bad taste?

Camilla Parker Bowles, second wife of Prince Charles of England, wore a colourful fuchsia suit to a sombre US memorial service last year. Bad choice. Sommers notes that sombre events call for sombre colours. Her first impression as the "other woman," in combination with her lack of attention to fashion is fatal.
 
Make an entrance

It's not enough to dress properly—you've got to carry it off well. When meeting your new boss and co-workers for the first time, Sommers says stand up straight. "You'll want to pause at the door, look around, enter to the right--and don't slink. Trying to look like Greta Garbo is not acceptable; the idea is to be self-assured, not apathetic." Keep your hands at your sides and keep still—no fidgeting.

Allow someone else to introduce you to the boss. "You want to mingle with co-workers and because it may be seen as rude to ignore everyone and plunge forward to force the boss to meet you on your terms." Never assume people know your name, introduce yourself to everyone.

The 'keep it simple' list

Intelligent design: Dress stereotypes are rampant. Sommers says that eastern European women are thought of as 'dowdy dressers' and western European women as 'too provocative'. Neither is true, women in Moscow are just as tailored as women in Milan. A little cleavage may even ruin your career, says Sommers, referring to a recent study which found that women CEOs who were provocatively dressed were thought of as stupid. Even compared to lower level women who dressed the same way, CEO's still came off as dopey.

Buy quality there:  How to know? Touch it says Sommers. Look at the seams--are they straight? Are the edges finished or frayed? Spend the most money you can on the items that will last. Don't buy clothes in your native country; wait until you're there and can see what's being worn.

Colour it neutral: Do not buy the colour of the season, warns Sommers, select neutrals—they're a foil for colourful accessories. It may sound boring but within each colour there are tones that apply to every skin colour. "Almost everyone can wear every colour, so long as the tone matches."

Going too far: Expats can go overboard by becoming a caricature of the country they live in. Sommers says it's not uncommon to see an expat become more French than the French. Adopt habits that better yourself—like table manners.
 
Face front:  Make up—yes, but keep it natural. Ditch the bright red lipstick and err on the side of less not more. Jewellery should be refined and subtle. Large expensive pieces can be seen as ostentatious and offensive—showing off. Try pearls, says Sommers they reflect beautifully on the skin. No matter how cool, excessive piercings are reserved for the young.

Shoes: You'll probably be walking if you're headed to a big city. Think comfort, but not athletic shoes. Heels are fine as long as you can walk comfortably in them. Keep shoes clean and unscuffed.

Accessories: Scarves and shawls are a great way to add colour to your business suit, says Sommers. Invest in good lingerie, there's an implicit "don't jiggle" rule for business women. It's fine to have curves, but use common sense and good taste.

July 2006

Freelance writer Bernadette Sukley is based in the US.