Ready-to-wear gears up for Paris catwalks

27th February 2005, Comments 0 comments

PARIS, Feb 27 (AFP) - The fashion industry's established heavyweights, along with a few new faces, will unveil their autumn-winter 2005-06 ready-to-wear collections from Monday in Paris, the last stop on a month-long style tour.

PARIS, Feb 27 (AFP) - The fashion industry's established heavyweights, along with a few new faces, will unveil their autumn-winter 2005-06 ready-to-wear collections from Monday in Paris, the last stop on a month-long style tour.

After setting up camp in New York, London and Milan, some 2,500 journalists and store buyers will converge on the French capital for the final round of runway madness, with about 100 catwalk shows on the Paris agenda.

While Monday's spotlight will be on up-and-coming designers, Japan's Yohji Yamamoto will lend the proceedings some guaranteed star power late in the day.

The Paris catwalk calendar begins in earnest on Tuesday, with British designer John Galliano for Christian Dior and France's Jean-Paul Gaultier unveiling two of the season's most anticipated collections.

Galliano and Gaultier, along with German style guru Karl Lagerfeld, are among the designers pulling double-duty in Paris, presenting ready-to-wear lines under both their own names and for an established Parisian house.

Galliano returns to the runway Saturday with his own creations. A few hours before, Gaultier will present his work for Hermes.

Lagerfeld is a triple threat - he will unveil his own Lagerfeld Gallery line on Wednesday and his Chanel collection on Friday in Paris, after showing his work for Fendi in Milan last week.

After seeing his brand sold by French luxury group LVMH to US duty-free retailers Falic Group last month, Christian Lacroix will present his latest designs on Friday "with the same means as usual", according to his staff.

The French couturier, who unveiled his collection for LVMH-owned Emilio Pucci in Milan, is currently in contract negotiations with the new owners of his own label that are "proceeding as planned," his aides said.

Editors and buyers are keenly awaiting the follow-up collections from Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent and Roberto Menichetti at Celine, after both earned mixed reviews for their debut shows in October.

Two classic houses, Paco Rabanne and Emanuel Ungaro, are betting on fresh talent this season to revive their status in the fickle world of fashion.

At Rabanne, 38-year-old Patrick Robinson - who previously worked at Perry Ellis, Armani and Anne Klein - is looking to shake up the house's image. The American replaces Rosemary Rodriguez, who was chief designer for four years.

French designer Vincent Darre, 42, will take the reins at Ungaro from Italy's Giambattista Valli, who will launch his own collection during Paris fashion week.

Darre, who worked for the past three years at Italian house Moschino after stints at Prada, Chloe and Fendi, brings a wealth of experience to Ungaro.

The fashion world's key players will all be in Paris, including Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, Alber Elbaz for Lanvin, Dries van Noten, Dutch design duo Viktor and Rolf, Britain's Alexander McQueen, and US designer Rick Owens.

The ready-to-wear scene is not just a man's world, of course: Britain's Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo for Chloe, along with Japan's Tsumori Chisato, are all sure bets to offer exciting catwalk moments.

Greek-born British designer Sophia Kokosalaki, Singapore native Andrew Gn and Britain's Charles Anastase will lead the industry's up-and-coming talents down the runway throughout fashion week, which ends on March 7.

© AFP

Subject: French News

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