Mr Tweed goes to town at Chanel

4th March 2005, Comments 0 comments

PARIS, March 4 (AFP) - German designer Karl Lagerfeld on Friday dazzled the Paris fashion crowd with his sporty, comfortably chic autumn-winter 2005-06 ready-to-wear collection for Chanel - offered to both women and men.

PARIS, March 4 (AFP) - German designer Karl Lagerfeld on Friday dazzled the Paris fashion crowd with his sporty, comfortably chic autumn-winter 2005-06 ready-to-wear collection for Chanel - offered to both women and men.

"Winter sports don't discriminate between the sexes," Lagerfeld told AFP following the show, staged on a mirror-edged catwalk lined with silver gates.

"Chanel took a lot from men - it's time to give something back to them."

And so the German designer sent men down the runway in the same chunky knits, tweed jackets, cashmere trousers and strands of pearls that he offered for women, creating a new wardrobe for the daring metrosexual.

Despite the novelty of including men in his show, Lagerfeld's focus remained firmly on the modern Chanel woman. He unleashed a veritable assault of ideas, including his latest reinvention of the house's classic tweed suits.

This season, he shortened the sleeves of jackets to reveal sweater sleeves and layered knee-length skirts over cozy cashmere leggings. He also cut oversized jackets and paired them with knickers in gray and black check.

"The tweed jackets are very comfortable - otherwise, what's the point?" Lagerfeld said.

For a more casual daytime look, the German designer offered slim-leg black jeans with girlish ribbons tied in sweet bows at the knee, paired with a simple white tee-shirt and black jacket. Shearling jackets were edged with tweed.

Demure black cashmere tee-shirt dresses dotted with delicate pearls took on a sexy allure when paired with skinny thigh-high leather stiletto boots. Icy pink and lilac brightened up Lagerfeld's mainly black, gray and white palette.

For evening, Lagerfeld closed the show with a series of flippy black cocktail dresses with pearl-edged ribbon accents - 10 models in dresses that scored a perfect 10.

A remake of Coco Chanel's first quilted bag, designed in 1955, is the must-have accessory of the season. Tweed messenger bags with flower accents are also sure to make the most-wanted list.

The German designer - who presented his third ready-to-wear collection in little more than a week, after shows for Fendi and his own Lagerfeld Gallery - has no intention of launching a full-scale Chanel menswear line.

But a member of his staff noted: "If the outfits work for men when they try them on in the stores, they can go ahead and buy them."

Before the high-energy show, an anti-fur militant threw food in the face of American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, one of the most powerful women in fashion, witnesses to the incident told AFP.

"Shame on you!" the young woman cried as she hurled what looked like cheese at Wintour, who was wearing a fur coat. The militant quickly disappeared.

The surprised British editor extraordinaire quickly ducked backstage to redo her make-up before reappearing, smile and sunglasses intact, in the front row.

Lagerfeld vented his anger, saying: "It's fascism, it's just absurd. If someone had done that to me, I would have been totally cruel in response."

French designer Christian Lacroix was to unveil his winter ready-to-wear collection later Friday.

© AFP

Subject: French News

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