Issey Miyake's haunted house of fashion
Mist wafted onto the runway as the models stepped out in ghostly-fine silks, to the sound of eery fairground music: Issey Miyake's look for next summer came straight out of a haunted house.
Pale as moonlight, the first model wore a dress of infinitely soft, pleated grey silk tumbling straight from bare shoulders to the thighs like its wearer's thick, soft pony tail, blonde with a red streak.
Designer Dai Fujiwara put the focus on fabrics, showcasing the label's technical know-how in a series of groups with names like "Invisible", "Transformation", "Shadow" or "Merry-Ghost-Round."
Sleeveless dresses were wrapped like kimonos, with a large black-and-white check folded over the breasts, worn over ballooning soft white pants, cropped at mid-calf.
Flowing, ultra-fine silks, alternated with highly-structured pleats and architectural folds around the shoulders and hips.
A white, full length, fine-knitted dress was covered with a mosaic of tiny slits that stretched to offer a glimpse of the model's black skin underneath, with ridges of little triangles like a dragon's scales running up the arms.
The same elaborate slitted-motif cropped up on a black dress, worn over ample black pants.
One cleverly pleated sarong-dress bounced up and down almost a foot as the model walked, in a charcoal-sketch pattern of grey and black.
The Miyake palette mostly ran from white to black -- like a grey silk dress with a band of lighter silver discs running around the breast -- with patterns like cobwebs and mist.
But there were playful numbers too, like a rust-coloured bell hat of wide netting, worn over straw-coloured shorts and body-hugging top with rich, scrunched-looking embellishments.
And eruptions of colour came with bold chequered or tie-dyed patterns in mustard, red, and turquoise.
Black twisted leather could be zipped on and off white dresses, with bags to match, while shoes were streamlined slip-ons like clogs with an open toe and bare strip across the bridge, or flats in sparkling silver or rust.
© 2010 AFP