Haute couture: Valentino, Galliano both see red

24th January 2006, Comments 0 comments

PARIS, Jan 24, 2006 (AFP) - Italian designer Valentino and John Galliano for Christian Dior highlighted two opposing faces of haute couture on Monday; one based on classic, red carpet-ready elegance, the other revealing a more experimental approach for the 21st century.

PARIS, Jan 24, 2006 (AFP) - Italian designer Valentino and John Galliano for Christian Dior highlighted two opposing faces of haute couture on Monday; one based on classic, red carpet-ready elegance, the other revealing a more experimental approach for the 21st century.

Graceful evening gowns fluttered to the ground in luxurious white fabrics at Valentino, who kept the glamour refined, sophisticated and feminine for this spring-summer, while the silhouette was always statuesque and fluid, skimming the body.

Occasional ladylike prints of peonies and roses offset ruffles, pleats and diamond-encrusted embroidery, as the legendary Italian couturier, known as the 'master of the dress', conjured up a collection of both day and eveningwear that was unostentatious but clearly full of couture craftsmanship.

Saharan sand dunes sought to dispel the cold chill of the Parisian night from the desert catwalk at the ornate Fine Arts School on the French capital's Left Bank, with the rising sun sending out a warm glow as the show got underway.

And in lipstick red — Valentino's signature colour — a long silk chiffon dress with pleats and ruffles seemed to do the trick, adding a bold fiery splash to the otherwise delicate pale pink, lime, sand and white hues.

Earlier, British designer John Galliano dipped into revolutionary France for his spectacular collection for Christian Dior that was imbued with passion, creative lightness and dramatic effect.

First out was a blood-red embroidered satin cape providing a taster of what was to follow — Galliano said in his crimson-coloured show notes that "Red is the New Libertine".

A scarlet voluminous dress was stunning with a jet black cross hanging around the neck, while the creative strength of haute couture was also much on display in Galliano's highly structured use of leather.

The garments had a lightness about them, created out of masses of fine fabrics such as tulle, chiffon and taffeta that was often heavily draped and seemingly effortlessly sculpted.

Laces ran up trouser legs, corsets and on the back of garments, while further historical references were in evidence as models donned white frizzy wigs and one had 1789 written on her chest.

French actor Jean Reno and Ivana Trump attended the show, which culminated with the designer, ever the showman, making a dramatic appearance, fencing sword in hand, to take his traditional bow.

Adeline André sent out a multitude of variations of the silk dress in new colours, also shown on the first day of the spring-summer haute couture 2006 shows. Simple fluid lines only highlighted her technical command.

A cardigan dress in deep purple and sky blue silk was sensational, while delicate green and yellow provided a vivid splash for summer. An avowed lover of colour, Andre said she is always looking for unusual ones.

Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel kicks off the second day of spring-summer haute couture catwalk shows in Paris on Tuesday, followed later in the day by Christian Lacroix and Givenchy.

Copyright AFP

Subject: French news

 

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