Fashion pundits warm to Yamamoto in an icy Paris

1st March 2005, Comments 0 comments

PARIS, Feb 28 (AFP) - Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto on Monday gave the Paris fashion crowd a carefully crafted lesson in volume and structure with his poetic collection for autumn-winter 2005-06.

PARIS, Feb 28 (AFP) - Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto on Monday gave the Paris fashion crowd a carefully crafted lesson in volume and structure with his poetic collection for autumn-winter 2005-06.

Portable heaters did little to erase the biting chill inside a disused covered market in central Paris, but the hundreds of editors and buyers in attendance quickly warmed to the first heavyweight catwalk show of the week.

Working mainly with his trademark black, Yamamoto used plain wardrobe basics as the starting point for his musings on volume, trussing up the back of a long coat with clusters of bows or accentuating shoulders with a three-ply collar.

The Japanese designer, whose work will be the subject of a major four-month exhibit at the French capital's fashion and textile museum starting April 13, layered skirts over full-cut cuffed trousers cropped at the ankle to add bulk.

He then pared down the silhouette by offering long ultra-feminine column skirts that showed lots of leg with trim jackets.

Flashes of fuchsia and red appeared at the start of the show, but mid-collection, he traded in his cherished black for psychedelic prints in both bold and pastel hues, using just a thin veil of black fabric to tame them.

Yamamoto ended the show - set to a driving rock soundtrack that included Alice Cooper's anthem "School's Out" - with a series of frock coats embellished with crystals and silver embroidery, fit for his female rock stars.

Germany's Bernhard Willhelm offered a circus of a catwalk show at the Bercy stadium, sending his wacky-coiffed models - complete with leopard-spotted face paint - back and forth in a star formation across a giant circle.

From long tunics printed with a clock motif to high-waisted gold lame capri trousers to a wispy white and black dress with a Greek key pattern, Willhelm's eccentric and eclectic collection offered a bit of everything.

He capped the madcap display with 20 barefoot men and women clad in black sweaters, leggings and leopard masks, who bounded into the circle atop giant red bouncy balls, whooping and screaming. Anything goes at Paris fashion week.

Ready-to-wear week in the French capital continues Tuesday with collections from John Galliano for Christian Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Naoki Takizawa for Issey Miyake and Vivienne Westwood.

© AFP

Subject: French News

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