Fashion - Lacroix tones down for more wearable clothes
Christian Lacroix showed refined clothes which immediately looked more wearable than his cutting-edge couture.
PARIS, February 28, 2008 - Christian Lacroix toned down his usual
flamboyance in his autumn-winter collection on Wednesday, showing refined
clothes which immediately looked more wearable than his cutting-edge couture.
He used a lighter hand on detail, so for once there were not too many
things crying out for attention, and there was more overlap, with some fabrics
and shapes emerging as clear favourites for next season.
A fine wool treated to look like wrinkled elephant skin was the first star
on the catwalk. He used it for his opening number, a pure white winter coat
with a dramatic upturned chalice neckline and outsize sleeves cropped at the
elbow, the rest of the arm enveloped in a black feather gauntlet.
The same temptingly tactile textured fabric was turned into a
sharply-tailored jacket in fuschia set off against a slithery white satin
skirt, with origami folds in front standing out slightly from the waist.
Striking prints were leitmotifs in the collection. A bold harlequin print
with diamonds in purple, orange, lime and acid yellow in duchesse satin was
turned into a puffball mini skirt and off-the-shoulder ruffled dress, while
devore velvet in ruby, green and blue was printed for a "stained glass" effect
but looked hand-painted.
Cabbage rose sleeves and bows adorned the grander evening gowns, while more
fragile frocks had feather embroidered sleeves or even light-as-air ostrich
feather capes thrown over the shoulders.
Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy presented an austere, but sumptuous collection
on Wednesday evening, with lots of ruching and flounces, dripping with giant
crystals and passementerie and an elongated, slim silhouette.
Billowing sleeves and strangulating high collars or floppy neck ties all
spelled 18th century aristocratic decadence. Ruffles even traced the shoulder
lines of shirts with dickeys which were elaborately flounced and pleated.
Clear crystals gave a lift to silky blouses, while black stones set in
Spanish-style passementerie adorned coats in light colours.
For his own label earlier in the day Karl Lagerfeld showed long-line
close-fitting jackets with stiff pleats jutting out from below the hips.
His alternative look was maxi-length high-waisted skirts, shown with sharp
white shirts and bows at the neck.
Asked if he was predicting a return of longer hemlines, he declared: "I
don't believe in only one skirt length. Today this is the expression, the
attitude, the looks that give the modernity. It can be a longer skirt, a
shorter skirt, a mini skirt and it can be pants. You cannot make headlines
with only hem lengths, there has to be a little more."