Fashion: Gaultier revisits 70s

30th January 2007, Comments 0 comments

PARIS, Jan 30, 2007 (AFP) - Russet for matching hair and clothes was de rigueur for Jean Paul Gaultier's 70s-revisited winter wardrobe, while designer Franck Boclet elegantly bowed out at Smalto.

PARIS, Jan 30, 2007 (AFP) - Russet for matching hair and clothes was de rigueur for Jean Paul Gaultier's 70s-revisited winter wardrobe, while designer Franck Boclet elegantly bowed out at Smalto.

With all his usual gusto and humour, France's Gaultier set his catwalk show for his Gaultier 2 line of men's and women's clothing amid a busy hair salon Monday, confessing later backstage that he had always had a love of them.

Coiffed male models sporting huge sideburns and 'big hair' in wigs of platinum blond or russet sauntered out in leggings or tight iridescent trousers, or in gold lurex tops.

Blouson or velvet jackets were also key to the look, while Gaultier, who himself wore a long curly blond wig over his own close-crop while spraying hairspray, also offered a sweatshirt with long-haired sleeves.

"Hair, it's very important. For man, it's the coat, it's a part of us," he said after the show.

At Smalto later in the day it may have been heavy rock music pulsating from the soundtrack but on the catwalk it was a symphony of Italian elegance with classic greys as the harmony and impeccable cuts as the melody.

For his final collection for the label, maestro Franck Boclet mixed up smart casual pieces such as a flying jacket and a minimalist cardigan and polo neck ensemble with the aristocratic chic of shaped tailcoats and cravats inside open-necked shirts.

Staying true to house style he gave the shoulder a gentle lift and he also stood collars stiffly upright while a soft grey leather trench coat had a fox collar.

Boclet, wearing an elegant three-piece suit and snazzy long-toed shoes -- a good advert for the house -- is to take over as menswear designer at Ungaro.

Asked about his reasons for leaving Smalto, he said: "It's been 16 years. When one does this job, one needs at times to give oneself a kick in the behind, to take new risks to still feel like creating."

He will be replaced at Smalto by Youn-Chong Bak, a Swiss designer of Korean origin.

At Hermes, designer Veronique Nichanian sketched a youthful, unfussy silhouette in her show late Sunday, paring down classic favourites such as the trench or blouson jacket to give a minimalist contemporary edge.

While the overall colour palette of browns and greys suggested understated glamour, the Hermes man adores luxury and will not be disappointed with the array of rich materials on offer.

For a smart weekend look, blouson jackets came in calfskin, buffalo hide, lambskin, crocodile or even lizard while beaver provided the detachable lining of a long, hooded parka.

But, while the cut was generally clean, pure and boxy, Nichanian prevented the look becoming too neat, allowing the sleeves of mottle-effect, roll-neck sweaters to overshoot jacket cuffs.

The menswear shows will be wrapped up Tuesday by Hedi Slimane for Dior, while earlier in the day two Japanese labels, Kiminori Morishita and Mihara Yasuhiro, present men's collections in Paris for the first time.

Copyright AFP

Subject: French news, Fashion

0 Comments To This Article