Dior's nonchalant glamour wraps up menswear shows

31st January 2007, Comments 0 comments

PARIS, Jan 31, 2007 (AFP) - Hedi Slimane's dynamic menswear collection for Dior late Tuesday was a bit like a fond teenage memory.

PARIS, Jan 31, 2007 (AFP) - Hedi Slimane's dynamic menswear collection for Dior late Tuesday was a bit like a fond teenage memory.

Its nonchalant glamour was reminiscent of hours spent getting ready to go out while trying to look like no effort had been made at all.

Fuelled with plenty of 'so what' attitude, models marched up the catwalk in little jackets with collars turned up and sweater sleeves hanging below the cuff covering their hands.

Their New Romantic hairstyles, dramatically swept to one side or backcombed, added an 80s-flavour, but Slimane captured a sense of effortless chic that seemed thoroughly modern.

With all the glamour of youth and in mostly heavy 'rock star' black and grey, the collection provided a punchy finale to five days of catwalk shows for autumn-winter 2007-08 by leading menswear designers.

"A memory of adolescence", the designer said of his collection after the show backstage, pointing to the mid-eighties and recalling a club he used to go to when he was a teenager.

The slight silhouette traditionally favoured by Slimane was loosened up a bit with 'saroual', or baggy North African style trousers. Layering long shirts under shorter jackets also softened the look.

Earlier in the day, two Japanese labels made their debut in the French capital with two distinct approaches to men's style.

Having presented his collections in Tokyo until now, Kiminori Morishita said, speaking through an interpreter, that he had decided to bring his wardrobe focused on a richness of materials to Paris because "it's the city of fashion".

With the fabrics all produced in Japan, including traditional Hogushi print technique and reproduced 19th century materials, the wardrobe seemed destined for a young aristocrat.

Jodhpur-inspired trousers and long boots looked fit for a day's riding, while clean-cut models in flying jackets and white scarves had an air of a dashing aviator. A perfectly proportioned bellshape cape was one of the highlights.

At Miharayasuhiro, which has shown its collections in Milan since 2004, the theme of piecing together different materials for texture and colours ran throughout -- a trench coat had a knitted back while the front and shoulders were in a contrasting material.

Woollen panels vertically ran up trouser legs, even shoes were boldly half-metallic and half-black. A play on long and short was also part of the equation, with hems geometrically cut out shorter at the front.

The clothes had a sense of careful consideration in their design with a vitality and wearability, although a grey woollen jumpsuit zipped up the front might well require an adventurous spirit.

For the day's most original catwalk decor, German designer Bernhard Willhelm's montage of wicker basket models, a miniature snow-covered mountain, giant bratwurst and yodling was hard to beat.

He returned to an Alpine theme with a checked smock opening the high-altitude attire that included non-leather lederhosen-type trousers over long woolly socks, knitted ensembles and hiking boots.

Copyright AFP

Subject: French news, Fashion

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