Tue, 9 February 2010
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In Lives and Livelihoods in the Languedoc-Roussillon 32, Basil Howitt is dragged against his will from the peace and quiet of home into the Tarn and the strange, wonderful town of Albi.Recently Basil Howitt and his wife Clare abandoned their scorched-earth surroundings of the Agly valley and travelled by train through the départements of the Aude and Haute Garonne to the Tarn. By comparison, it is a land of milk and honey, whose capital is the breathtaking town of Albi with its brick-built, elephantine fortress-cathedral. Impressive in a totally different way were the grotesque, gnarled carrots on the market, so very non-EU, and the best ribs of beef he has ever tasted.
From Rivesaltes station to Albi via Toulouse
What a culture shock our journey was after spending so much time in our sun-parched, wind-battered landscape! I have my wife Clare to thank for our occasional sorties into other parts of France and Spain. Left to my own devices I would very happily rot away here in Lansac, never stirring like most of my dear older neighbours – Messieurs Montolio, Izard, Larrieu, Bertrand, Capela … - except to go shopping in Estagel or St Paul-de-Fenouillet. Why is it that ageing men, unlike their wives, never want to go anywhere much?
As it is, Clare drags me away screaming and kicking; but once I am on the train, I’m thrilled to be going somewhere new.
Rivesaltes to Toulouse
The first leg of the journey was uneventful, apart from the distant view en route of Carcassonne, bastioned and turreted “like a magical kingdom floating in the sky.” (See Lives and Livelihood - Dream or nightmare .) And apart also from the genial “bon appetits” from smiling fellow passengers as we munched our picnic lunch.
From Toulouse to Albi
We felt we were really on holiday as the local train (destination Rodez) made its way north east to Albi. Some of the station names evoke strange, unreal places: Monostruc la Conseil, Roqueserière-Buzet, Rabastens-Couffouleux… The only town en route we had heard of was Gaillac, which nowadays supplies very quaffable plonk (and some posh bottles also) to the bars and restaurants we visited.
Basil, thank you a hugely enjoyable artice as always. Your train journey back had me in stiches! Hope your next weekend is somewhat quieter.
This is hilarious! My wife emailed me the article because it mentioned St Paul. My aunt is from Lansac, her parents used to live there, and I know a couple of people there, I believe you know Francine? My parents come from Prugnanes and Saint Paul, and I know the area like the back of my hand, although I sadly don't have the occasion to visit as much as I would like since I live near Washington D.C. now... but I'll definitely follow your articles from now on! Thanks!
Thanks for your latest e-mail it reminded me that I had only got half way through this one before i was sidelined. It's brightened my day to relive your train journey, You probably needed another holiday after this - love to Clare.
Hello Olivier!
This is incredible! Tonight we spoke to André and Francine at the Lansac Christmas supper and they told me you had seen my piece in America.
What a small world it is!
Keep in touch!
Basil
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