Sweet Wine, Chocolates Galore, and Women’s Voices
(Not to mention also a Michelin Star)

If you head west on the D117 from the Catalan border town of Estagel, with the unforgettable 10th century fortress of Quéribus towering above you on your right, you soon come to Maury, the first village along this route in Le Fenouillèdes, or the Land of Fennel - or even Fenolheda in Occitan-speak, Le Fenouillèdes is part of Occitan Languedoc, whose inhabitants are rather scornfully referred to by Catalans as “les gabatx” or foreigners. Skirmishes between the “gabatx” of Maury and the youths of Estagel are still not unknown.

Unless they are turning off for the dizzying climb to Quéribus, many tourists drive straight through Maury’s very narrow main street en route for the Aude. However, thanks to the dynamism of Maury’s mayor, Charles Chivilo, and many others, more people are pausing there to dine, buy wine and enjoy many communal events.

Maury (population 901) has long been famous for its sweet red fortified wines (Vins Doux Naturels or VDN) – rich, aromatic and very fruity, made from Grenache noir grapes. Basically, these wines are produced by stopping the fermentation with the addition of grape spirit, and have enjoyed AOC status since 1936.

The trouble is that not so many people want to drink these magnificent bottles any more. Less than 10 years ago the Cave Cooperative of Maury was close to collapse, with a debt by 2003 of 1.7 million euros. A receiver was appointed to try to steer the cave through the crisis.

With the dramatic fall in takings, the majority of vignerons had decided in 2001 that the cave must diversify into dry wines - reds, rosés and whites. This majority, under its newly elected president, Paul Armingaud, thus took control of the cave’s administrative council. In addition to a red Côtes du Roussillon-Villages, new country wines such as Terra Novo and Les Maurynates appeared.

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