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You are here: Home Leisure Travel & Tourism Around and about Paris - 18th arrondissement and la...

14/04/2008Around and about Paris - 18th arrondissement and la Goutte d'Or

Expatica France is pleased to offer a historical and cultural tour of Paris from City of Light expert Thirza Vallois. We continue our tour in the eighteenth arrondissement, in the area known as la Goutte-d'Or.

Undoubtedly, Montmartre steals the show in the 18th arrondissement, but
 if you want a taste of today's ethnically multi-cultured Paris, the Goutte-d'Or further east will be your destination, a tiny patch of Africa, transplanted to Paris.The neighbourhood  is also one of the last remnants of genuine working-class village life. If you come over on Saturday morning, you will have to negotiate the crowds, which are  part of the atmosphere,  and will enjoy the colourful food market held under the elevated railway tracks along Boulevard de la Chapelle - a pretty sight, though filled with the incessant clatter of passing trains.

 Turn left into rue des Islettes, where the famous washouse of La Goutte-d'Or once stood, a red-brick building, reeking with steam. It is around this working-class hub that the life of Emile Zola's Gervaise rotated and from where Nana set out on her journey up the echelons of society. La Goulue, a creature of real flesh and blood, immortalised at the Moulin Rouge by Toulouse-Lautrec, was also the daughter of a laundress from La Goutte-d'Or - Zola's creatures were all true to life.
 Today rue de la Goutte-d'Or, to your right, is predominantly a North
 African enclave,  conspicuously empty of women, as are the enclave's cafés.

The first North Africans came here in the early years of the  20th century, but the big wave of immigration arrived in the 1950s, often to work in the automobile industry. By the end of the decade, the Goutte-d'Or was so heavily populated with Algerians that it became the FLN headquaters during the Algerian War.

 In the middle of this North African enclave, behind an iron age at no.
 42, the countrified Villa Poissonnière, seems like a bit of Montmartre

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