No-fuss style rules in Paris 02/03/2007 00:00

PARIS, March 2, 2007 (AFP) - Two top female designers stole some of the limelight here Thursday, with Stella McCartney displaying down-to-earth style and Ivana Omazic opting for no-nonsense sensuality at Celine.

But that did not stop Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent amply proving to be the leading man at the Paris winter ready-to-wear shows where he instilled a quiet sense of chic into shades of grey and black.

Wearing hoods, dark glasses and high-heeled mules, models presented either a rounded silhouette such as a wide sloping-shouldered coat, or a straight-cut one whose effect was never severe.

And he reinterpreted the French house's legendary tuxedo as a crisply-cut dress.

Celine designer Ivana Omazic kept her silhouette strict and streamlined with tight wide belts accentuating the fitted feminine styles, further highlighted by a thin belt in a different colour.

A street scene on a giant screen in black and white rippled like water as each model emerged, in outfits with rigorous city polish, often worn with driving gloves and caps with thick straps under the chin.

The Croatian designer, who became artistic director of the French fashion house in 2005, loosened the rein slightly with 'droplet' slits up the arms. Skirts had flat front splits and trousers were deep-cuffed and mannish.

For the height of stylish practicality, Stella McCartney's straight-forward clothes have all needs covered for today's busy woman to stay chic and comfy -- big pockets, hoods and a good warm coat, for starters.

But the well-constructed range ran from a fluffy slate grey coat, to V-neck sweater dress with squared-off shoulders, a ladylike cinched jacket and a sexy, but not fussy silky little party frock in fuchsia.

For fun, she had jumpsuits; for rain, a hooded sailor's jacket or cropped parka.

Meanwhile, leggings which have returned with a vengeance and so rapidly impacted on high street fashion featured at Leonard and were treated to the French fashion house's inimitable signature prints.

They came in the house's other trademark -- silk jersey fabric -- in flowery black, caramel, brown and cream, or paler beiges, for a fresh and fun pairing with a shift dress.

While black opaque tights are proving popular elsewhere on the Paris catwalks for next autumn, at Cacharel, legs were sheathed in grey tights under pushed-down wrinkled socks for dressed-down glamour.

Headscarves created what the house termed in its programme notes "East European outdoors chic", especially when into the pot was thrown hues of barley and steel grey, leafy prints and rucksacks.

Glittery tops were paired with matte, less dressy garments, and fabrics, especially two-tone, proved the decoration.

For its part, Japan's Tsumori Chisato had long footless socks in a collection with light touches of the Orient and included fluid floaty dresses, tiny embroidered pearls but also a quilted copper jacket and aviator leather.

At Emanuel Ungaro, Peter Dundas dedicated his collection to the "Night Bird". "I have always loved night clubbing," his style notes said, of the sequin and crystal-embroidered T-shirt and plunging micro-mini dresses.

On Friday, German designer Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel and Britain's Alexander McQueen unveil their women's ready-to-wear collections. Paris fashion weeks runs until Sunday.

Copyright AFP

Subject: French news