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You are here: Home Moving to Getting Started How restaurant service in Spain has evolved

29/10/2009How restaurant service in Spain has evolved

Gwendolyn Alston wonders if good and personalised service in Spanish restaurants is a thing of the past and attempts to explain the diverse service culture in Spain.

One would think that in these difficult economic times, more attention would be paid to ensuring that restaurant and bar customers be coddled and cared for—no one can afford to lose a customer.

However, in my recent experience, this is not the case.

What I have seen lately in my incursions, even to some of my favorite places, is a downturn in customer attention. And in Spain, where the service ethic, compared to what we understand as service in the United States, is more often than not slipshod or even outright rude, this is saying something.

Don’t get me wrong. This is not an across-the-board statement.

In the time I have spent visiting and living in Spain, my experience of service in restaurants and bars has been quite diverse. From the classic Spanish waiter, cloth napkin hanging over his arm, who started working at the age of 17 and may continue in the same place, or neighborhood until he retires, to the wait staff on the coasts who are doing you a favor when they take your order. In between, I have enjoyed plenty of excellent service, especially in Madrid bars.


Good service vs bad service
The experience I most often cite when I talk about service here is my experience at the corner bar. I am not talking about a tavern or a pub where the lights are low and only alcoholic drinks are served.

I mean the type of bar you typically find three to a block on a Madrid street: plate-glass windows, high stools at the counter, some tables lining the windows, balled up paper napkins, olive pits and shrimp shells tossed on the floor. Once upon a time, there were cigarette butts there too.

This is where I have been served the best, once I learned to elbow my way to the counter, wiggle in a space for myself and build up the gumption to bellow out to the closest man on the wait staff that I wanted a coffee, beer or coke accompanied by a bocadillo or a plate of tapas.

The remarkable work that I saw was how these men (because they used to be only men) moved about with expediency and good humour, took orders without a pen and swiftly served up each plate, often with a friendly quip for the customer.

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