The Shadow of The Wind

However, its success is due partly because of the way it evokes the gothic gloom of post–Civil War Barcelona.

Set in Barcelona's Gothic quarter, the story weaves like the tiny, poorly-lit passageways in this part of the city; round every corner there is a surprise, on almost every page, something new.

I followed the labyrinthine journey of the hero, Daniel Sempere, to parts of the city which were a revelation.

As yet there are no Shadow of the Wind guided tours, but Maria Luisa Albacar, of the Barcelona Tourist Office, believes in six months' time tourists will want to discover the city afresh through the pages of this remarkable book.

Kirsty Dunseath, of Orion Books, who took a group of British publishers round Barcelona to get a feel for the novel, said: "The protagonist of the book is not Daniel, but Barcelona itself."

The story begins on La Rambla, Barcelona's principal thoroughfare, as Daniel heads to the mysterious Cemetery of Forgotten Books, where those who love reading keep their favourite books.

Zafon describes La Rambla as "like a watercolour slowly coming to life".

Today, bird-sellers compete with wacky mime artists for the tourist euro and it is hard not to be beguiled by the sheer colour.

Mime artist on La Rambla

It is a lovely place to have a coffee under the palm trees and watch the world go by. One hidden treasure is the Pipe Club, a bar dedicated, bizarrely, to Sherlock Holmes.

But better still is Placa Sant Felip Neri, where Daniel tracks down the mysterious Nuria Monfort. The tiny, dark streets leading there reminded me of the novel's grim atmosphere.

Zafon perfectly describes the square as "a small breathing space in the maze of streets". As the suns streams in, a few dazed tourists gaze at the pock marks left on the walls by Civil War bombs.

The church was said to be Gaudi's favourite and he was reputedly run-over and killed on his way there.

In one corner is the four-star Hotel Neri, a restored 17th century palace, whose mix of minimalism and luxury is delightful. It would be a perfect place to stay.

The Museo del Calzado, dedicated to the history of shoes, is also worth a stop.

A few streets away is the restaurant Els Quatre Gats, made famous by Picasso, Lorca and Dali and where Daniel meets the bookseller Gustavo Barcelo.

It is as much a tourist trap as a working restaurant, but still worth a visit as the food is good value and the turn-of-the century décor has not changed since the era in which the book is set.

Nearby is Calle Montcada, famous for the Picasso museum. It is dotted with small courtyards which litter the novel.

From here, it was a short stroll to Barceloneta and the sea, where the book ends. It was the most charming place to sit on the jetty in the sun looking at the bay, like Daniel, after a meal outside.

The author Carlos Ruiz Zafon

On the way, I passed the Calle Arco del Teatro, off La Rambla, scene of the Cemetery of Forgotten Books.

This dingy street has the threatening atmosphere of the novel but is only worth a look-in.

Once in Tibidabo, I take the 103-year-old blue tram and stop at 32 Avenida del Tibidabo.  

I expected the dark, "cursed" mansion, but it is a smart office. I consol myself across the road in the excellent El Asador de la Aranda restaurant, a paradise for meat-lovers.

From here it is a short walk or another tram ride to the top of Tibidabo, to have a relaxing drink in one of two bars and gaze out over Barcelona to the sea. A perfect end.

Need to know

Barcelona Pipa Club
Placa Reial, 3
Tel: 933 024 732

El Asador de Aranda
Avenida Tibidabo, 31
tel: 934 170 115

Hotel Neri
St Sever 5
tel: 933 040 655

4Gats
c/Montsio 3bis
tel: 933 024 140

The Shadow of the Wind
Planeta EUR 19
(English version available)

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[April 2005]

[Copyright Expatica]

Subject: Spain; Shadow of Wind