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09/07/2010Expat Story: Yoga in the house

Expat Story: Yoga in the house Arpi, an English expat in Spain, opts for a lesser known holiday at a yoga detox retreat near Orgiva which leaves her feeling more at peace with herself than ever.

The setting sun copper-coats the Contraviesa mountains as I turn off the winding main road onto a dusty campo track. I off-road past fig, olive and almond trees, whitewashed cortijo cottages and dogs on siesta duty.

I’ll be on time for the evening class at Kaliyoga, but I’m still anxious. Leafing through the glossy yoga mags, it seems I may not be blonde, slim or athletic enough to join Jonathon and Rosie Miles’ ‘yoga house party’.

I re-adjust my brightly striped swim top layered over a ruthless sports bra, which is failing to crush my assets into the approved elfin shape. Cropped sky blue workout pants that reveal too much untanned skin complete the look.

Too late to change now; I’ve arrived. I haul out my battered basket (so much for the handwoven silk yoga bags I’ve seen advertised) and hurry through the rustic wooden entrance doors into a sunlit courtyard full of brightly-coloured flowers. A fellow guest even paler than me smiles a welcome and directs me to the class, just beginning on the cane-canopied yoga shala, or platform, a shady island lapped by waves of bleached campo grass on the terraces below the house.

Kaliyoga is situated on a working Andalucian olive farm framed by dramatic mountain scenery, about 45 minutes from Granada. The house, built just 15 years ago, is faced with timeworn stones salvaged from the original building. It’s cool and spacious, with five bedrooms for up to 10 guests. Each simple but comfortable room is individually decorated with traditional touches. Guests can choose from long weekends or a six-night stay, with classes tailored to meet the needs of beginners as well as more experienced practitioners.

When I take my place at the shala, Rosie Miles is already speaking to the group in a quiet but clear voice that denotes her past as a theatre and television actress. She is blonde and attractive, but there’s nothing elfin about her.

Rosie explains that yoga is a tool to focus body, mind and breath, and reveal the union between them. Competing to be ‘better’ than your neighbour is gently discouraged. “It’s definitely not ‘look at me’ yoga,” Rosie assures us, before apologising for having grubby feet. I’m relaxing already.

We’re taken through each move in easy stages, with plenty of personal attention. I’m doing fine until in one position, I discover my nose very close to my big toe, possibly for the first time since infancy. The close-up of my crumbly toenail polish brings me back to earth pretty quickly. But overall, the two-hour session leaves me energised yet relaxed.

Next morning, the intense Andalucian light makes getting up easy. Herbal mint tea is a pleasant change from the wake-up slap my morning coffee usually provides, and I stroll across the rough grass to the 9.00 am class.

The deep breathing and outdoor exercise have given me a keen appetite. Luckily, the food at Kaliyoga is anything but monastic. With the cheerful energy displayed by everyone who works here, talented chefs Katie and Ian produce dish after vegetarian dish of Mediterranean and Turkish-inspired savouries and sweets, using locally grown organic ingredients.

Brunch features a Greek bean salad, another salad of beetroot, walnut and lettuce and a warm sundried tomato and feta tart, alongside a huge bowl of fresh fruit, cool yogurt and cereal. To drink, there are freshly-made smoothies and lemonade, as well as a rainbow of herb teas and good coffee.

“We don’t think healthy vegetarian food should mean joyless food,” explains Rosie. “Anyway, we’ve never had complaints about banana ice-cream or chocolate tart on the menu!”

There’s an effortless blending of personalities and cultures here. In the Mediterranean garden, Michel, the Belgian gardener, speaks French with Jonathon. Tiny dreadlocked Danila, the Thai yoga masseuse, who is Italian, talks to chef Katie, who is English, in Spanish.

Nearby, Jonathon and Rosie’s two-year old daughter, Lola, is busy watering the plants with a blue plastic can as tall as herself, while her brother, four-month old Lucas, gets a warm cuddle from the elegant New Yorker. Later, some of the staff join us for dinner; it all feels like family instead of ‘them and us’.

At Jonathon’s ‘mostly meditation’ class on our last evening, the thyme-scented breeze sweeps softly over us, carrying the music of distant goat bells and a chatty herd on its way home from work. It is a perfect moment, and for once I am still and quiet enough to appreciate it.

The following morning, most of the group is going home. Everyone seems relaxed though there are cars to drive and planes to catch. I glimpse my tousled hair, unmade up face and rumpled dress but hardly give them a thought. Instead, I make plans to return to this feelgood retreat as soon as I can.

Arpi / Expatica

Reprinted from ExpatWomen.com, the largest free global website helping expatriate women living overseas. Do you also have a tale to tell about your life in France? If so, we’d love to hear it! Your story could be based on a real-life experience or be fictitious. Click here to send your story!


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