The Spanish rail network is operated by the state-owned company Red Nacional de los Ferrocarriles Españoles (RENFE) which operates some 15,000km of track and 2,500 stations.

The RENFE network takes in all major cities, although it doesn’t run to many small towns, and is supplemented by a few suburban networks such as the Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya (FFCC, but commonly referred to as the Generalitat) city lines in Barcelona and private narrow-gauge railways.

Spain’s railway network is well below average by European standards, particularly regarding punctuality, although it’s also one of the continent’s cheapest. However, RENFE has undergone a comprehensive modernisation programme in the last decade during which journey times have been reduced by up to 50 percent.

In 1992, a high speed Tren de Alta Velocidad Española (AVE) service was introduced between Madrid and Seville (2 hours 25 minutes) for the World Fair. The AVE (which also means big bird in Spanish) employs ‘disguised’ French TGV trains running on special lines travelling at speeds of up to 300kph (185mph). Full refunds are offered if an AVE train is more than five minutes late arriving at its destination!

The AVE service is to be extended country-wide by 2007 and when the network is finished, all provincial capitals will be under four hours journey time from Madrid and all provinces under six and a half hours journey time from Barcelona.

The stretches that are currently under construction are Madrid - Barcelona (completion due in 2004), Madrid-Malaga and Madrid-Valencia (both due in 2005). The AVE will eventually comprise part of a Europe-wide, high-speed rail network (unlike other Spanish trains, AVE trains run on European standard-gauge track) connecting to both the French and Portuguese networks.

Other first-class, long-distance (largo recorrido) trains include the Tren Articulado Ligero Goicoechea Oriol 200 (Talgo), which has first and tourist class seats and is similarly equipped to AVE trains (although slower).

RENFE operates a mind-boggling variety of trains, most with different services and fare structures. Spanish trains vary greatly in speed, with the fastest comparable to Europe’s best and the slowest travelling at about the same speed as a city bus.

In general, fast trains stop only at main stations, while slow local trains stop at all stations. One of the fastest trains is the Talgo which also includes Talgo sleepers (coches-cama). A Trans-Europe Express (Talgo TEE) is a fast train operating on international routes. Interciy (IC) trains are air-conditioned and fast, while Electrotrén (ELT) and Tren Electrico Regional (TER) trains are both comfortable and fast, but slower (and make more stops) than a Talgo. A TAF is a diesel express used on secondary routes and slower than a Talgo or TER.

There is also a huge variety of slow, local, short-distance trains classified variously as tranvía (also a tram), semi-directo, correo (post train), automotor, omnibús and ferrobús.

Suburban commuter trains (cercanías) are second class only and stop at all stations. A regional express (reg. exp.) or interurbano is a second class, air-conditioned diesel train and an exprés is a slow night train, usually with sleeping cars. A rápido is a daytime version of the exprés. Despite the names, the exprés and rápido aren’t particularly fast.

Night trains (estrellas) are slow trains with various types of couchettes (literas) and beds (many long-distance trains run overnight).

Car trains run to all parts of Spain (e.g. you can transport your car by train from Barcelona, Bilbao or Madrid to Malaga) and include an autoexpreso, which carries cars, motorcycles, light boats and canoes, and (on some routes) there’s a motoexpreso carrying only motorcycles. If you aren’t in a hurry, it’s advisable to compare the cost of slow trains with fast trains, as the savings are considerable (slow trains are excellent for tourists as they allow plenty of time to enjoy the sights).

Long-distance trains usually have first and second-class carriages, although there’s a bewildering variety of fares within each class and for different train types. Spanish fares are low by European standards, with the base fare around EUR 0.60 per 10 km for second class and EUR 1 per 10km for first class. However, supplements can increase fares by up to 80 percent.

Fares are graded according to a train’s speed and comfort and there are surcharges (suplementos) on fast trains including TER, Talgo, Inter-City and ELT trains. A smaller supplement is payable on rápido class trains. A first class ticket costs around 50 percent more than second class.

International trains

Spain also has many international services, although they’re slow and expensive compared with air travel.

There are direct trains to many western European cities (e.g. Geneva, Milan, Montpellier, Paris and Zurich) and there’s even a train from Madrid to Moscow taking around three days.

International trains usually have two classes, first (gran clase) and tourist (turista), plus sleeping cars (coches camas) with a choice of individual compartments or couchettes.

At border stops it may be necessary to change trains due to Spain’s wider gauge than the rest of Europe, except for Talgo and TEE trains which have adjustable axles.

RENFE also operated a Train-Hotel (Trenhotel) service running from Madrid to Paris (Francisco de Goya) and from Barcelona to Milan (Salvador Dalí), to Paris (Joan Miró) and to Zurich (Pau Casals). The Francisco de Goya takes just under 25 hours and costs EUR 336 return for an adult travelling first class in low season. The Salvador Dalí takes under 24 hours and costs EUR 304 return for an adult travelling first class. Beware of thieves on overnight international trains as there have been robberies on overnight trains in recent years, particularly those travelling between France and Spain.

Spanish network & main stations

The Spanish railway system is centred on Madrid, from where three main lines radiate out to other parts of the country (two extend to the French border and the other to Andalusia and the Levante). Consequently there are good links between Madrid and other cities, although to get to a destination without going via Madrid often requires a circuitous journey.

Madrid has two main stations (estaciones). Chamartín (the largest) serves A Coruña, Albacete, Alicante, Barcelona, Bilbao, Cartagena, Irún, León, Lugo, Ourense, Oviedo, Salamanca, Santander, Soria, Vallodolid, Zamora, Zaragossa, and France plus local services. Puerta de Atocha station (south of the Prado museum and recently extensively restored and renovated) serves Castilla-La Mancha, Andalusia and Extremadura, including Almeria, Badajoz, Cadiz, Ciudad Real, Cordoba, Cuenca, Granada, Malaga, Mérida, Salamanca, Seville, Toledo, Valencia, plus Portugal and local services.  

The main stations in Barcelona are França and Sants (the most important), which has a link to Barcelona airport. Trains to all major Spanish cities and to France (via Gerona) leave from Sants, while França has daily international trains to Geneva, Milan, Paris and Zurich. Note that in smaller towns, stations are often located a few kilometres from the town centre and there may be no bus service.

Other trains include the independent FGV narrow-gauge line (1915) operating the Costa Blanca Exprés running along the Costa Blanca from Denia to Alicante (93km/58mi) and the Limón Exprés operating between Benidorm and Gata de Gorgos. A coal-burning steam train (Tren de la Fresa) with wooden seats runs from Madrid to Aranjuez on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from May to October.

Buying tickets

Buying train tickets (billetes) in Spain can be confusing as there’s a baffling range of fares (precios/importes) and trains to choose from. Confusion is widespread and ticket office clerks aren’t always familiar with the variety of special tickets and reductions available. You should double check to ensure that you pay the lowest possible fare for a journey.

Fares for long-distance and high-speed trains such as AVE are published in leaflets available from stations and RENFE offices, and all fare information is available on the RENFE website (www.renfe.es). Children under four years of age travel free (including sleeping accommodation) and those aged between 4 and 12 travel for half fare.

Tickets can be purchased at station ticket windows (taquillas de billetes), from ticket machines (máquinas de billetes) accepting cash and credit cards, at RENFE offices, and from RENFE appointed travel agents.

Tickets can now be bought online, although the secure booking service requires you to have a codename and password, which can only be obtained by calling RENFE first (902-157 507).

RENFE also provides a telephone booking service (902-240 202) open from 5am to 11.50pm and tickets can be delivered to addresses in Barcelona, Madrid, Seville and Valencia. Otherwise you have to collect your tickets from a train station.

A single ticket is un billete de ida and a return (round trip) is ida y vuelta. There may be an information (información) or international information window at major stations, where staff may speak English and other foreign languages.

A ticket must be purchased and validated before boarding a train, unless there’s no ticket office (or it’s closed) at the station where you’re boarding. It’s possible to buy a ticket on a train from the ticket collector/conductor (revisor), although you may need to pay a surcharge, depending on the type of train and the length of your journey.

Ticket classes

There are two classes on most long-distance trains: first class (primera clase shown as 1ª) and second class (segunda clase shown as 2ª). On some services, such as fast AVE trains, there are three fare classes: turista (T-tourist), preferente (P-business) and club (C-first). Some trains such as IC and TEE international trains are first class only.

Fare tariffs

There are different fares depending on the ‘type of train’ (tipo de tren) and how long the journey takes. The difference between the cheapest and most expensive fare can be as much as 150 percent. Apart from the extra cost, it’s best to avoid travelling on public holidays or over long weekends (puentes), when the whole nation takes to the rails (those that aren’t on the roads).

Reservations

Reservations can be made on routes over 200km (124mi) between two months and one hour before departure. On AVE trains, open tickets (billetes abiertos) are valid for six months and bookings can be made ten minutes before train departures. Many stations have advance booking offices, although it’s usually better to book at a RENFE office or a RENFE-appointed travel agent (agencias de viajes), displaying the blue and yellow RENFE logo. Seats should be reserved as far in advance as possible (at least 24 hours), particularly during the main tourist season and before public holidays.

When you make a reservation via the phone or Internet you’re given a code number. You must then go to any station or RENFE travel agent within two days of making the reservation, quote this number and pay for your ticket. Tickets can be paid for with cash and various credit and charge cards including Access, Visa, Mastercard, Eurocard and tarjeta 4B. Note that seat and (in particular) sleeper reservations are compulsory on many long-distance trains. Train tickets purchased abroad must be stamped before each journey, either at a RENFE office or at a station before departure.

Changing tickets and cancellation

It’s possible to change the date and time of travel on pre-booked tickets. There’s a surcharge of 10 percent of the cost of a ticket to change it and a 15 percent surcharge to cancel a ticket and receive a refund. Note that refunds are made only on tickets purchased with credit cards. You can change the departure date of a ticket with a reserved seat without penalty up to a few hours before the scheduled departure. Cancellation and refund of a ticket for AVE and Talgo trains can be done up to five minutes before departure.

Season and special tickets

Many season tickets (abonos) and special discount (descuento) tickets are available in Spain. These include discounts for students and youths (16 to 25), senior citizens, handicapped passengers, commuters, groups, and holiday and excursion tickets. Most special tickets can be changed or cancelled. Information is obtainable from information and ticket offices at any railway station.

Senior citizens and disabled passengers

Senior citizens aged over 60 and handicapped passengers can obtain a gold pass (tarjeta dorada) for EUR 3 a year offering discounts of 40 percent on all trains except AVE and Talgo 200 long-distance trains where the discount is between 25 and 40 percent.

Commuters

There are various commuter tickets in Spain including monthly season tickets (bonos mensuales) offering discounts of up to 40 percent. For further information enquire at any RENFE ticket office. Season tickets are also available on long-distance trains such as the Talgo 200 between Malaga and Madrid, e.g. the Abono 10 ticket costs EUR 304 for ten journeys in tourist class and is valid for a maximum of three months.

Youths

A carnet joven (national student card) is available from local municipal youth departments for EUR 3 for students aged between 12 and 26 and provides a 25 percent discount on RENFE regional trains, but no discount on AVE or Talgo trains. A passport or residence permit (residencia) and a passport-size photograph are required. Students can also benefit from the Tarjeta Studio which is valid for one term and allows unlimited travel on local train networks (cercanías) in Asturias, Barcelona, Cadiz, Malaga, Murcia, Seville and Valencia. Prices depend on the area.

Children

On AVE and Talgo 200 trains there’s a 40 percent discount for children aged from 4 to 13. On other trains the discount is for children aged from 4 to 11. Children under four travel free on all trains.
Groups

Groups of 10 to 25 people receive a 15 percent discount on AVE and Talgo 200 trains (for groups above 25, contact RENFE).

International tickets

Holders of a Eurailpass, Eurodominó or Interail may travel on AVE and Talgo 200 trains by paying a supplement of EUR 38 (club), EUR 22.50 (preferente) and EUR 9.50 (turista) on AVE trains. Club and preferente discounts are applicable only to holders of first class tickets. Student discounts of up to 40 percent are available from offices of Wasteels (European travel agents that specialise in train tickets).

Timetables

If you use trains regularly, you should obtain route maps (mapas de carreteras) and timetables (horarios) on arrival in Spain. However, bear in mind that most times are approximate only, and with the exception of timetables for fast (e.g. AVE) and international trains, they shouldn’t be relied upon, although local trains (cercanías) are generally punctual.

At major stations, arrivals (llegadas) and departures (salidas) are shown on large electronic boards. It’s wise to double-check departure times and not rely on announcements (that’s if you can understand the often garbled messages). You also shouldn’t trust the list of trains posted at a station, but confirm trains and times a ticket or information office. When you buy a train ticket with a reserved seat, the train number and departure time are printed on it.

Note that many services operate daily (diario) or only on working days (laborables), which may include Saturdays, and a limited service is operated on Sundays and holidays (domingos y festivos).

This article is an extract from Living and Working in Spain, by David Hampshire. Published by Survival Books.