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Where to live in Madrid 21/10/2003 00:00

From the central barrio of Lavapies to the luxury hotspot of La Moraleja, there's a Madrid neighbourhood likely to suit most expats (and the Beckhams).

Madrid is a bustling city of  five million inhabitants with a cosmopolitan choice of art galleries, theatres, cinemas, restaurants and night spots. (It’s said to have over 17,000 bars and cafes, more than in the whole of Belgium.)

Expats are dispersed in neighbourhoods throughout Madrid

Highest capital in Europe, it stands at 2,000 feet on the central Castilian meseta (tableland) and has a Mediterranean-continental climate of over 200 sunny days a year with hot summers and cold bright winters. In spite of dense traffic its proximity to the high Guadarrama mountain range ensures a regular flow of mountain air that has helped on many occasions to ease potential pollution problems. 

The native English-speaking population of Madrid in general comprises a selection of integrated and active residents dispersed in locations ranging from the old city centre to the northern outskirts.

Among the most favoured areas — in ascending scale of cost — are the old central barrio (district) of Lavapies, residential suburb of Chamartín, stylish urbanised "satellite" towns of Pozuelo de Alarcón, Majadahonda and Las Rozas, and deluxe enclave of La Moraleja where well-heeled expats like the recently arrived Beckhams (Real Madrid player David and 'Posh' ex Spice Girl Victoria, as if you didn't know) have chosen to live.

Lavapies

Lavapies, in the former Judería (Jewish) area of Madrid's narrow alleyed old quarter just south of the central Sol square, is the most earthily uncomprising and ethnically mixed of all the city's barrios. Local resident nationalities are a colourful blend of European, North African, Chinese, Pakistani and Turkish. Polyglot cafes and bars abound and the bohemian ambience includes an independent theatre and art cinema.

Properties here tend to be small studios and one-bedroom flat conversions, and purchase and rental costs are relatively low. It’s more suitable for single “go it alone” expats in low-paid jobs such as teaching and freelance writing and has the great advantage of being within walking distance of all the city’s countless central attractions, including the weekend Rastro market, 16th. century Plaza Mayor and main Gran Vía avenue that dissects the city centre.

On-the-spot metro and bus services operate to every corner of the city. (Similar in mood and facilities, are Malasaña and Chueca on the northern side of the Gran Vía, though both tend to be noisier at night. The latter is the heart of Madrid's gay culture.)

Chamartín

Northerly Chamartín is located around one of Madrid’s two main huge stations. (This one covers northern European destinations.) Spacious and residential with a well-established expat community, the area is favoured by couples or families who want comfortable accommodation in easy reach of the centre.

Bus and metro communications are excellent and the latter’s 1 and 9 lines are the most modern and comfortable in Madrid, gliding smoothly into the Castellana Avenue and AZCA financial business zones of  the city in just 15 minutes.

Tucked away behind Chamartín's wide avenues are a variety of medium to costly modern two to four-bedroomed apartment complexes, as well as a couple of secluded and sought-after residential “colonies” of expensive villas with private gardens, El Viso and Rosales, which date from the 1930s. 

The choice of cafes and eating spots is stylishly international and as a special treat for shoppers Chamartín’s two storey French-quality covered market is the most chic in Madrid. Socially-oriented residents are also well catered for with a variety of international clubs, societies, churches and schools and the suburb’s top sports facilities include Madrid’s only Olympic-sized indoor swimming pool.

Pozuelo de Alarcón, Majadahonda and Las Rozas

Pozuelo de Alarcón, Majadahonda and Las Rozas, just over half an hour beyond the city limits to the north west, are a close-knit trio of new towns that have been unrecogisably transformed from ravaged and neglected post Civil War hamlets into extensive ultra modern urbanisations of large high standard apartments, semi detached houses and villas with tastefully planned green zones.

Their original tiny centres have been totally restructured for 21st century living and boast an international choice of banks, shops and eating spots, many showing a strongly North American rather than European influence.

There are several international schools in the area and plenty of organised sports and social facilities.

Properties are expensive and the zone is particularly favoured by executives with families seeking home comforts in a peaceful setting that's within easy commuting distance of work.

Cercanías (suburban) train and bus services both into the capital and up into the mountains are excellent and for car owners access via the main Carretera de Coruña highway – best avoiding rush hours of 7.30am to 9am and 7pm to 9pm – is first rate.

Rail routes both in and out of the city are unexpectedly attractive as they pass through the southerly fringe of the pinewooded El Pardo national park.

La Moraleja

Top of the scale comes the rarified-air development of La Moraleja, situated in the north east corner of the city just below the further “satellite” pueblo of Alcobendas.

Like the similarly-planned Mirasierra to the west and Piovera to the south, this Madrileño version of Beverly Hills is a tranquil and spacious oasis of luxury villas with private gardens.

Rental and purchase prices are extremely high and its residents include the internationally rich and famous, from the aforementioned Beckhams to film stars, impresarios, politicians and top company directors.

A selection of Madrid’s best private schools and sports clubs is located in this area and what few eating spots exist are select and costly.

Buses and trains run regularly from nearby Alcobendas to Madrid centre a mere half an hour away but a private car is essential both for shopping in nearby commercial centres and for going into the city independently via the busy Carretera de Burgos N1 highway.

1 reaction to this article

guirigay posted: 28-02-2008 | 11:26 AM

i live in arganzuela, near the metro stop of Palos de la Frontera, and it's great. it's not as stuffy as places like the Barrio de Salamanca, there are many new rest and authentic ethnic restaurant (ecuadorean, colombian, indian, peruvian, dominican, brazilian, and many more!) and shops, and you are 3-4 Metro stops from everything (Sol and Callao), with buses galore running up the Castellana and to the Retiro, plus Atocha Station to travel anywhere and everywhere in Spain in under 3 hours. plus it's a little less expensive than other madrid 'hoods.

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