Sun, 8 November 2009
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In the Kryivka cafe, you can order a ‘grilled KGB agent’ and shoot a rubber bullet at photograph of Stalin all under one roof."Are there Russians or Communists amongst you?" barked the grey bearded man at the entrance, clutching an old sub-machine gun.
A strange way to welcome visitors to a fashionable cafe perhaps. But then this is the popular Kryivka (secret place) cafe in the western Ukrainian city of Lviv that celebrates the deeds of a wartime anti-Soviet guerrilla group.
The man, dressed as a soldier, offers visitors a glass of honey vodka -- "poison for the Moskals," he cackles -- before leading them to the cafe that seeks to imitate a Ukrainian nationalist hideout.
The controversial Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) are still revered as heroes in western Ukraine for fighting Soviet forces up to the early 1950s in the hope of creating an independent Ukrainian state.
But their detractors accuse them of collaborating with the Nazis and taking part in deadly ethnic cleansing operations against local Polish citizens.
Almost everything in the cafe is a reference to the UPA: the waiters are dressed in khaki, the crockery is metal and wartime weapons and photos adorn the walls.
You can even fire a plastic bullet into the portrait of Soviet wartime leader Joseph Stalin, something Ukraine's First Lady Kateryna Yushchenko lost no time in doing when she visited.
"Before, we had a plaster head of Lenin to fire at,” said senior waitress Anna Garbar. “But it was completely destroyed in about two weeks of shooting and we still haven't purchased a new one."
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