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You are here: Home Leisure Travel & Tourism Short Breaks: Germany's Baltic Coast
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26/04/2006Short Breaks: Germany's Baltic Coast

Short Breaks: Germany's Baltic Coast Germany's Baltic Sea resorts may not yet be on the map of globe-trotting travellers - but they will be next year when the G8 summit of industrial nations is hosted at a stunning beachside hotel.

Leaders of the G8 will be feted in July 2007 at the spectacular Kempinski Grand Hotel in Heiligendamm, a Baltic coast town deep in what used to be communist East Germany.

Recently opened after major restoration, the hotel complex is a series of classical buildings dating back to 1793 which were one of the nation's top resorts for business, political and aristocratic elites until the rise of the Nazis in the 1930s.

The Baltic is attracting increasing attention

Rooms within the scrubbed white facades surrounded by lawns sweeping down to the water cost up to EUR 1,000 a night. So Heiligendamm may be right for the G8 club of wealthy nations - but it's clearly not for everyone.

Take heart, however, because Heiligendamm is only the flagship of numerous remarkable hotels flourishing in the Mecklenburg-West Pomerania state, just a few hours north of Berlin.

Having sampled many of these resorts on weekend getaways, I have been surprised at high standards of service, food and design.

Splendid facilities and collective farms

The countryside is a pastoral mix of woods and fields covering the rolling north German plain. It was earmarked as a conduit for Warsaw Pact troops to pour into Western Europe in case the Cold War ever became hot. Crumbling former Soviet military facilities still dot the landscape.

Germany's 19th century Iron Chancellor, Otto von Bismarck, poked fun at the rustic nature of the region in bon mot many residents now wear as a badge of honour.

"If the world comes to an end, then I'll move to Mecklenburg because everything happens there 50 years later," said Bismarck in one version of his famous remarks.

Nevertheless, anyone planning to visit should be aware the region is part of Germany's economically hard-hit, rustbelt where unemployment is over 20 per cent.

Splendid facilities and beautiful nature are sometimes offset by the jarring ugliness of rotting communist-era collective farms and prefabricated tower bloc apartments slammed amidst what would otherwise be idyllic villages.

But the new roads and infrastructure are superb, having all been rebuilt since 1990 and if the older people still speak only Russian as their second language, English is the language of youth.

Restored in style

A few weeks ago, my wife and I checked into the Stople Manor House Hotel which was bought back after reunification by its former owners.

Hidden in a large private park full of old linden and chestnut trees, the manor has been carefully restored in English country-house style. A huge old brick barn has been converted into more modern hotel suites and apartments with kitchens.

The illustrious Kempinski Grand Hotel will host the G8

The nearby Peene River provides a starting point from the hotel for walking, boating, fishing and even hunting for wild boar and deer which can be arranged by the hotel.

The staff are young and enthusiastic, the rooms small but comfy and the food superb. For those who tire of the inexpensive gourmet restaurant, the alternative is a heavy German- style meal at the nearby "Faehrkrug" or ferry pub, which is also run by the hotel.

Farms and fireplaces

A real contrast can be found at Gut Brook manor located between the historic cities of Wismar and Luebeck, just one kilometre from the Baltic Sea.

Run by the Dornier Foundation, this is a real working farm as well as a manor and castle which offers a host of vacation options.

For families with children, the 19th century barns, converted into comfortable two-story apartments, are an ideal base for exploring the region or just relaxing.

With playgrounds and horse riding lessons for children, there are plenty of activities including tours of the 1,300 hectares of organically managed fields, woods and a hyper-modern dairy.

The apartments come complete with unlimited wood for the mandatory huge fireplace. This being the Baltic coast, hot summer days are often followed by chilly evenings, so crackling wood fires are a welcome way to wind down in the evening.

"So far 98 per cent of our guests come from Germany," said a spokeswoman for Gut Brook. "But we expect a lot more international visitors after the G8 publicity."

Gut Brook is less than an hour from Luebeck airport which is served by low-cost airlines from London.

Welcoming Germans and the G8

Those seeking more luxury should head to the estate's castle just a short walk from the beach. Gross Schwannsee Castle dates back to 1745 but has been spectacularly restored.

Another top address is Gut Boldevitz on the Baltic island of Ruegen. A magnificent 17th century manor, built while the island was under Swedish rule, has been converted into an elegant country hotel especially favoured for weddings as it has its own private chapel.

Find a rustic getaway at the Gut Brook

For those who seek privacy, there is a row of thatched-roof cottages under ancient oaks on a lonely road. Staying in a cottage complete with fireplace and sauna in the "Bluecher House," we saw roe deer every evening from the terrace which looked out over rolling fields of rye, rapeseed and maize.

"About 80 per cent of our guests come from Germany," said Beate Neumann who is in charge of the hotel and guest houses at Boldevitz. "But the G8 summit is very promising for us."

Activities at Boldevitz range from fishing and swimming in the large pond in front of the main hotel for children to horse riding, tennis and hunting in this wild game-rich part of central Europe.

Links:

www.kempinski-heiligendamm.com
www.brook.de
www.ruegenkaten.de
www.gutshaus-stolpe.de

April 26 2006

Copyright DPA with Expatica 2006

Subject: Germany, German, G8, travel, Baltic Coast, hotel, farm, castle



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