Sun, 27 May 2012
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Leisure
Dining & Cuisine
Hungary: A nation of goulash gluttons learns fine cuisine
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Hungary's restaurant scene has started to emerge from the sea of goulash and heaps of deep-fried pork that make tourists worry about their waistline.Magyar gastronomy, known around the world for its goulash, never had the standing Hungarians believed it deserved but young chefs trained abroad are starting to change that.
"There is a huge gap between the picture we have of our 'world famous' and 'world class' cuisine and the reality," said Tamas B Molnar, head of the Hungarian Gastronomy Association, a grouping of chefs, culinary writers, intellectuals and celebrities aiming to reform the country's gastronomic culture.
Indeed, five out of six Hungarians quizzed in downtown Budapest insisted that Magyar goulash, paprika chicken and pork stew had shot the national cuisine to the top of the international rankings decades ago -- a belief shared by most of their compatriots.
The grim reality, however, is a painful lack of quality ingredients, educated palates and skilled and innovative chefs, according to Molnar.
His view is confirmed by two chefs who, along with Molnar and his gastronomy group, have set out on a mission to change the goulash landscape.
"Not even (renowned French chef Paul) Bocuse could cook a good meal without good ingredients," said Molnar.
Buying abroad
However, in order to get good ingredients, Hungarian restaurants need to search beyond the country's borders, as the desired variety and quality of products is unavailable at home.
"Hungarians coming back from great restaurants abroad have started to look for the same treats at home too, and I really believe it is thanks to them that a few years ago the scene started to improve," Segal said.
Goulasch is not a traditional Hungarian food....
It s a strange hybrid of the traditional "Gulyas soup" and the "pörkölt"
And doesn t even exist in traditional the Hungarian cuisine in its know form. It probably was created during the K
Goulasch is not a traditional Hungarian food....
It s a strange hybrid of the traditional "Gulyas soup" and the "pörkölt"
And doesn t even exist in traditional the Hungarian cuisine in its know form. It probably was created during the K
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