Munich is not a city for the faint-hearted.

Coming from Berlin, we weren't ready for the energy and passion that makes Munich such a vibrant, cosmopolitan city.

Walking into Marienplatz for the first time - home to the late-Gothic Neues Rathaus with its famous glockenspiel - I was startled by the bustle and sophistication of Saturday morning shoppers.

For a moment I thought maybe we were in Milan, but then I heard the familiar strains of Bayern supporters and realised my mistake.

Munich is a very compact city with the main squares and museums all within easy walking distance of each other.

Five minutes walk from Marienplatz was Viktualienmarkt, a big leafy beer garden packed with people enjoying the spring weather and the traditional oompah band.

Everyone - including the band - seemed to have a large stein in one hand and some form of sausage in the other.

If you want to see postcard Munich, this is the place. Lederhosen abounds and the Maypole in the centre of the market points you to the next beer garden.

Another ten minutes and we were in Odeonsplatz, the site of one of the Nazi putsch attempts in 1923.

Odeonsplatz leads into the Canaletto-like Ludwigstrasse, and also seemed to be home to some of Munich's best buskers. My favourite was a soprano who had set up with a lute in the temple in the former royal gardens.

A stroll along Maximillianstrase, Munich's high fashion end of town, was also fun, even if the only thing we could afford was a coffee.

Munich's Alte Pinakothek has one of the world's largest Rubens collections and faces the Neue Pinakothek, which we liked best for its outdoor café. Feeling 'museumed-out', we narrowly beat another couple to a table and enjoyed a café lunch in the sun.

Perhaps the most enjoyable gallery was Lenbach Haus, an Italianate residence that is home to an extensive collection of Blue Rider paintings.

This movement, started by Franz Marc and Wassily Kandinsky around 1911, was to become of the two leading schools of German Expressionism.

Accommodation is not cheap in Munich, but we stayed at a very comfortable and central pension called Pension Haydn in Haydnstrasse (Tel: 089 53 11 19) for DM 120 a night (without bathroom).

We also had a great dinner at the Altestes Munchner Konzertcafe in Goethestrasse 51 which has the Hotel Mariandl above (Tel: 089 53 41 09).

Our bus drive from the airport cost DM 18 per person compared to DM 90 for a taxi, and the arm waving and swearing came for free. A train also runs from the airport to the central station.

More information

Munich Tourist Office: email tourismus@muenchen.btl.de