Founded by Alexander the Great in 332 BC, Alexandria’s past is illustrious. Home to the Lighthouse of Alexandria, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and to the Library of Alexandria, the largest library in the ancient world, the city was bastion of culture and activity.

But what of modern Alexandria? Is there more to this city, Egypt’s second largest, than its famous name?

Alexandrian authorities believe so and are planning to capitalise on the city’s magnificent past.

Egyptian novelist Naguib Mahfuz was always in awe of the city. "Alexandria was a European city where more Italian, French, Greek and English were spoken than Arabic,” he wrote. “The city was so beautiful and clean you could eat from its streets. In short, Alexandria was a European city but it belonged to us Egyptians."

But Alexandria's cosmopolitan community became marginalized after the 1952 revolution and the introduction of socialism – Arab-style.

All that remains of that era are memories and wistful melancholy. Plaster peels off the buildings along the Corniche – once Alexandria's main promenade. The buildings are in a bad state of repair, corroded by the salty air and neglect.

 The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a major library and cultural center located on the shore of the Mediterranean Sea in the Egyptian city of Alexandria. It is both a commemoration of the Library of Alexandria that was lost in antiquity and an attempt to rekindle something of the brilliance that this earlier center of study and erudition represented.

A renewal?

But times are changing, and the construction of the Biblioteca Alexandrina or the new Library of Alexandria is testimony to this phenomenon.

Opened in 2002, the new library aims to reconnect the city with its heritage as an ancient centre of learning.

The reading room is a full seven floors and has space for 2,000 people. Eight million books lie waiting on its shelves.

Interestingly enough, one book you will not find there is Mahfuz' novel, Children of Gebelawi, which is banned in Egypt, along with many other literary works.

Diving for treasures

Another activity central to Alexandria’s bid to revive its culture is diving. French archaeologists have been diving in Alexandria's harbour since 1998 and have recovered ancient statues, sphinxes and columns in the process.

They also discovered a 120-metre long tunnel with several rooms. At present, they are drafting plans to drain seawater from the site so more thorough work can be carried out.

Alexandria's sea front has seen the completion of projects such as a high-rise complex with a luxury hotel, apartments and restaurants built on the site of the old San Stefano hotel recently.

The city also has a new yacht harbour with a private beach and several, small townhouse-style apartments. The hope is that these projects will attract not only wealthy Egyptians from Cairo but tourists from Europe as well.

Alexa Nahas, an elderly tour guide and speaks seven languages, is looking forward to more foreign visitors.

Although very few foreigners come to Alexandria nowadays, she has fond memories of a pre-revolutionary Alexandria – when things were different.

"At that time, we had a lively cultural scene and people sat in elegant cafes and enjoyed exciting nightlife," she said.

Some of that former glory can still be found at the Trianon, Delice or the Sofianopoulo cafes, where modern Alexandrians like to sip Turkish coffee, eat sweet desserts and indulge in chitchat.

Visitors can also get a feel for Alexandria's past in Montaza Palace. Although the interior of the former summer residence of Egypt's royal family is not open to the public, visitors can have a look around its garden and guest house.

Furniture and bric-a-brac can be found in the Attarine quarter where shops in the narrow lanes are packed with antiques. And remember, if you’re looking to buy souvenirs: bargain!

Detlef Berg/DPA/Expatica

Photos credit: Argenberg; dungodung