After the furs, tartans and velvets wheeled out for Milan's men's fashion shows this week, all eyes during the four-day stint will be on Belgian Kris Van Assche's second collection for Dior

  PARIS, January 17, 2008  - After the furs, tartans and velvets wheeled out
for Milan's men's fashion shows this week, Paris from Thursday delivers its
own vision of menswear for next autumn and winter over four days of catwalk
shows.
   Held on the eve of Paris' women's couture shows kicking off next week, the
four days will be a marathon for the thousands of buyers and fashion types on
hand, with 44 shows plus a score of static displays.
   The only new designer on hand in Paris this season will be American Shawn
Collins, whose 2005 Los Angeles establishment caters to Hollywood stars.
   After having worked for eight years with celeb designer John Galliano,
Shawn Collins' style is both laid back and luxurious, with the accent on
quality fabrics for "men who don't follow trends," said a spokeswoman for the
label.
  A longer sleeker look for men with the accent on mixing styles -- such as
donning a three-piece suit but without the tie -- is expected to be the
watchword for next winter, according to Paris fashion trade weekly Le Journal
du Textile.
   For the first time in its history, iconic Italian house Valentino this week
will be displaying its creations for men in Paris rather than Milan, a nod to
its founder who quits the world of couture this month after an illustrious
45-year career.
   Taking over the men's lines will be Ferruccio Pozzoni, 47, formerly of
Brioni, Prada and Miu Miu, who will show his lines during a showroom
presentation.
   All eyes during the four-day stint will be on Belgian Kris Van Assche's
only second collection for Dior since the departure of Hedi Slimane last year
-- the designer who revolutionised both the house and men's fashion in general
with his new-look skinny pants and ties for men. The Belgian designer will
also show designs for his eponymous house.
   Missing from the Paris catwalks will be the house of Yves Saint Laurent,
its first no-show since designer Stefano Pilati took over from Tom Ford in
2004. Pilati however will be giving a static display of his lines.
   At Ungaro, Franck Boclet is showing his second collection while the house
of Cerutti makes a comeback to the shows with a first collection by another
Belgian designer, Jean-Paul Knott.
   Of the dozens of labels present at the Paris men's shows, particularly
awaited are Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier, Yohji Yamamoto and Givenchy on
Thursday, Rykiel, Kenzo, John Galliano on Friday, Emanuel Ungaro and Hermes on
Saturday and Lanvin, Dior, Paul Smith and Smalto on the last day, Sunday.
   Dior Homme, Dolce & Gabbana and Paul Smith were rated the three most
popular designers for men, according to a poll conducted among fashion buyers
by the Journal du Textile. Next in line came DSquared, John Galliano and Kris
Van Assche in that order.

by Dominique Schroeder
AFP